Vintage D-18 specs?

[Jim_H]

So I think my D-18 Reproduction will go along with what Martin did with the D-18V.

http://elderly.com/new_instruments/items/D18VM.htm

It has the things I am interested in (forward shifted bracing, tortoise colored bindings, etc...).

It's a good model to base my project on. I still need to think about Neck Profiles, and other such user specific things though.

[Freeman]

So I think my D-18 Reproduction will go along with what Martin did with the D-18V.

http://elderly.com/new_instruments/items/D18VM.htm

It has the things I am interested in (forward shifted bracing, tortoise colored bindings, etc...).

It's a good model to base my project on. I still need to think about Neck Profiles, and other such user specific things though.

Actually, Jim, what you should do is find all of the threads and articles about what Martin did with the D-18A (for Authentic). This is as close as they can get today to a 1937/8 - I think that means bar frets, tee bar truss rod, adi top, no popsicle, braz fretboard and bridge, and most importantly, HIDE glue all the way thru. There has been much discussion on UMGF and a Fretboard Journal article a couple of years ago (I could make a copy if you can't find it).

There are two local players who have 1938 D-18's and I have heard them both, and a couple of years ago I heard a D18A, D18GE and standard D18 played side by side - there is certainly a difference between the A and the other two.

http://www.martinguitar.com/guitars/cho ... p=m&m=D-18 Authentic 1937

[Jim_H]

Thanks Freeman,

Lots to consider here. Firstly, no bar frets for me. As far as using Brazilian, there are concerns there. For one thing it's expensive and not easy to come by, and secondly, it would subject the guitar to any import/export restrictions that being part of the CITES apendix III brings. Living as close as I do to Canadia, I'm not sure I want to mess with that.

I'll also use a standard double action truss rod, just because I want that flexibility down the road.

Pretty much everything else merits sincere consideration.

Thanks for the info!

[longbow]

Jim, I made a 37, but with a sitka top. The cool thing I liked was the wider 1-3/4 nut and 2-5/16 pin spread. Also the forward shifted braces. I had one last belly bridge wt. 2-5/16 , I can't see any for sale that wide unless it's non belly type straight one's from stew-mac ect. So I'll have to make some. I also used hide glue, I love that stuff. The wider neck is like a OM. on a D body, I'll tell ya the guy who gets this will be blow away. It's so loud and nice, you'll be happy you went pre-war.

[longbow]

Jim, I made a 37, but with a sitka top. The cool thing I liked was the wider 1-3/4 nut and 2-5/16 pin spread. Also the forward shifted braces. I had one last belly bridge wt. 2-5/16 , I can't see any for sale that wide unless it's non belly type straight one's from stew-mac ect. So I'll have to make some. I also used hide glue, I love that stuff. The wider neck is like a OM. on a D body, I'll tell ya the guy who gets this will be blow away. It's so loud and nice, you'll be happy you went pre-war.

[Darryl Young]

Hope I didn't miss this above, but are the braces scalloped on these old D-18s like the one in this video (sure sounds nice):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHxxWUqc ... re=related

Well, I answered my own question. The end of the video shows the braces inside this guitar.....

[Jim_H]

Thanks for posting that Darryl. I'll definitely reference back to that when the time comes.

[Darryl Young]

Jim, now I want to build one......

[Jim_H]

it's contagious I guess =)

[Tom West]

John: I think John Arnold at the UMGF may have a plan for a 37 Martin.Not sure if he sells them but worth a try. He is also an excellant source of info on old Martins.
Tom