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Question RE: Martin Truss Rod
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Post
mbbransc

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
OK, so I'm following the StewMac instructions for a Martin kit. I was all set to glue my fingerboard to the neck last night, and insert the included Martin truss rod. Uh oh, this this is MUCH longer than the truss rod in the StewMac instructions!!

The instructions mention using a shorter truss rod for dovetail joints so neck resets would be easier. It appears that Martin doesn't think that way. And looking at this, it seems the only way to use this truss rod would be to go ahead and set the neck without the fingerboard attached, insert the truss rod through the neckblock, and then glue on the fingerboard.

So, am I looking at this right, or not? Should I go ahead and order a shorter truss rod so that I can glue up the entire neck now and worry about setting it later? Any others on here used this type of truss rod got any suggestions?

thx
Brandon

Dec 05, 06 | 3:36 am
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
The Martin truss rod goes all the way thru the top up to the big cross brace (you actually route right through the popsicle). I have a better picture of both the neck and top, but it is on another computer - this will give you an idea of how the top gets routed. This has the Martin style neck block with the long extension but the Stew Mac works exactly the same.


Dec 05, 06 | 8:38 am
mbbransc

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
Freeman, I notice in your pic above though that the neckblock is much deeper than mine. Mine doesn't extend much beyond the dovetail joint. Will that matter if I route out a channel in the soundboard?

Dec 05, 06 | 9:16 am
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
No, my first guitar had the short neckblock and it worked out fine. This is a 12 string using a neck and block off the Martin line - I like the extra support for that part of of the top plate with the extra torque of the 12 strings. Here is another pic of the same thing - notice how the block is cut out for the popsicle brace.



And here is the six string with a block like yours. btw, given my experience with having my D-18 hot rodded by Bryan Kimsey I seriously considered leaving the popsicle out of the six. but in the end left it in




Dec 05, 06 | 11:56 am
mbbransc

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
Actually, my block is like your first one (pick in the mold with the top and back behind it). I guess the first pick just looked different to me. So, did you use an actual router, or a lam trimmer/Dremel? Or even a saw?

Also, no mention of the affect on the soundboard. Any thoughts?

I agree, it would an extra bit of support for a 12-string. I think it may even give more sustain. But I don't want to effect the tone by cutting some away!!

Dec 05, 06 | 12:10 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
I used a little router base on my Dremel but you could certainly cut it with a razor saw. One big advantage of the extension is that you can clamp against it when gluing the fretboard extension to the top - I had to make a caul for the bottom one.

Affect on sound? I have nothing to reference it too so I can't comment. What I will say is that the six string had pretty extensive scalloping and to my ears has a big, loud sound. Other players have commented that it is "responsive". The 12 was built to be tuned down and the only mod to the normal 5/16 unscalloped bracing was adding the third tone bar. Again, I was very surprised by how loud it is for a little git. How much that one small area of the top affects it I really don't know.

My reference to the popsicle was the long arguements that go on about the practice of removing them on some Martins (and the fact that the Authentic doesn't have one). The flip side of that are the pictures of the crushed tops on guitars that don't have them.

Dec 05, 06 | 1:27 pm
mbbransc

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
Thx Freeman. I started scoring the top with a carpenter knife and it was cutting through so easy, I cut the entire piece out with it! Did just a bit of sanding and it was good to go! I went ahead and glued up my neck last night too. Thanks for your help and quick responses!!

Brandon

Dec 06, 06 | 3:27 am
Herman

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 480
Heey guys,

This is a picture of the trussrod Martin uses:


Dec 06, 06 | 10:01 am
Herman

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 480

Dec 06, 06 | 10:03 am
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
As I understand it, Martin fits the neck to the body and serializes them - then they go their separate ways for finishing. When they come back together for the final fitment only minor setting is required. It is also my understanding that they don't do this with the MT necks.

Also kind of interesting that they only mask the dovetail mating surfaces and this shows the screw hole for the holder.

Dec 06, 06 | 10:21 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
The truss rod on Martins will change as they went with the 2 way truss rod. Stew mac uses the hot rod and they are also different. The truss rod slot on the Stew Mac isn't needed past the block like the martin one way.
Other than that , I hope I didn't get you too confused.
You have to open the top to make the area accept the truss rod but the newer designs are just opened past the neck block . The old design of martin went through the popsicle brace and to the hole in the truss rod brace.
john hall

Dec 06, 06 | 2:20 pm



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