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Neck joint glue- white or Yellow?

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 76
I was planning to use Titebond on both the underside of the fingerboard and the DT joint but then I thought "what if it ever needed to come out?" I then thought that perhaps white glue was best for that reason. But.... Won't white glue under the fingerboard soak up moisture and perhaps come loose easier? Is it better to just take your best shot at the perfect fit and then glue the whole thing with Titebond and hope for the best?

Sep 21, 06 | 6:34 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Hi Stuart, I have always used Titebond --- White glue "Elmers" will creep over time and in my opinion not a good choice. Your point about moisture is a good one, but in fact just the opposite will happen both types of glue add moisture (water) to the wood. The finger board and neck are going to warp a bit during the glue up so, use enough to cover but do not over do it. Actually, this is something we need to gaurd against during the entire building process.


Sep 21, 06 | 7:17 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Hi Stuart -- Another opinion. I don't use Titebond at all, and never have, so I'm offering a totally one-sided opinion. Ken's had more experience.

"That having been said," as they say -- I like LMI White Instrument Glue. It dries a bit harder than Titebond (according to luthiers who have used both) and is almost clear. The hardness, if that is true, would help to transmit sound somewhat better.

Like I said, an opinion based on little info. I agree with Ken about "Elmer's" though -- it is not for instruments.


Sep 21, 06 | 7:56 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
I am sure the LMI glue is a good choice --- when I get a chance I plan to find out who makes it --- I suspect it is used in the furniture/wood products industry under a different name. The fact that it dries harder -- sounds good too. On the other hand I do not like the shelf life aspect?? I forgot to mention that the Titebond ll or their other super #3 stuff are not good choices they are formulated to stay a little gooey --- water resistant.


Sep 21, 06 | 8:15 am

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 113
I had good results with LMI glue, but in fairness it's all I ever used so I have no basis for comparison.


Sep 21, 06 | 4:04 pm
Phlytyer (Keith)

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 273
Thank you all. Especially Stuart for bringing this up. I have received my kit from John (Blues Creek Guitars). It is currently 'acclimating', but I was wondering about which glue I wanted to use. LMI's is looking kinda good.

BTW, I am/will be posting construction updates on my BLOG which is posted on the KGB.

Sep 22, 06 | 4:28 am
Dennis Weatherly

Total Topics: 73
Total Posts: 651
FYI, I just started contruction of my kit and have been using the LMI glue. So far I really like it. It grabs very quickly, which helps when trying to keep things aligned as you clamp them. As advertised, it dries very hard and clear. Squeeze out has been easy to clean up after it dries using a sharp chisel.

I've also used a lot of Titebond for building bass guitar speaker cabinets. It works well for that, but I also use a nail gun during cab assembly. Titebond also does not dry clear - it remains brownish when cured. From what I know so far, the LMI glue would be my preference for instrument work.

Sep 22, 06 | 9:04 am

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