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Anyone have to trim the sides to fit in the mold?

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
OK, I did a quick search of this, but couldn't turn up anything. I thought I had seen something about it before. But I got my mold built for my kit, and I got the sides in it (even though they were soooo relaxed). But now the two sides overlap at the tail. I rechecked the measurements with the blueprints and it's the right size, but in order for each side to meet at the middle, I'm going to need to trim about 1/4" off each side. Anyone encountered this type problem before? I think I remember reading someone using an exacto-knife and a square to cut the ends. Any other advice?


Aug 27, 06 | 5:56 pm
Phlytyer (Keith)

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 273
TWEAKING... I think that is the technical term. It is my impression that most kits come slightly 'oversize' and you (the builder) get to fine tune (tweak) them. I fully expect to 'tweak' any kit I buy (ordered from John Hall yesterday BTW).

Other advice...go each step before you make it.

Aug 28, 06 | 5:55 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Brandon -- It's not uncommon at all to trim the ends of the sides after you've confirmed that all measurements are correct. The rule "measure twice, cut once" applies doubly in this guitar building stuff. I measure three times and write down each one, and I've caught myself almost making an error several times.

I'd leave the sides in the mold at least overnight and see if anything changes.

I use a razor knife for mahogany, since it's easily cut. For rosewood (yours is rosewood, right?) the exacto knife will take forever; a razor saw will work better.


Aug 28, 06 | 10:06 am

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 71
Rosewood, right. I left it in the mold last night. I guess I'm most worried about trimming the two ends and suddenly they don't line up square anymore. If I use a butt wedge, I suppose it won't matter because I'll be cutting that out. Just don't want to mess up this early in the game!!


Aug 28, 06 | 10:27 am

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 676

See if you can snag yourself a good set of small metal 'squares' that are make for machinists. I found mine at my favorite tool store -- e-bay for around $12 with shipping. This will allow you to accurately mark your side wood perpendicular to the mold. Two other things that come in really handy are sharp silver lead pencils from an art supply place and the white rubber erasers. The silver pencils show up really good on wood and the white erasers do their job well also.

Treat Bill's advice like the Bible, because it is. Measure a lot, write it down walk away do it again. Be really patient. There is nothing worse that the carpenter's lament of "I cut the damned board three times and its still too short!"

Enjoy the process!

Aug 28, 06 | 3:08 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Hi Brandon, You might want to check this out:

The procedure will work with just about any kind of mold – the post mold just makes it a little easier. If your block centerlines and inside waist curves are in the right places the entire building process will go much smoother.


Aug 28, 06 | 5:29 pm

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