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Dobro Dimension Thread is Missing.........
Author
Post
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 514
Did the Dobro dimension thread get dropped when we switched to the new server?

Please post your Dobro dimensions in this thread please? Maybe they can recover the other thread.

Jun 23, 10 | 4:57 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
Take your desired nut width, subtract it from your desired string spacing at the saddle (which is fixed by the pin holes). Add half of that to the nut spacing - that will be the width at the 12th fret. Lay that out on your neck centered on the centerline (the truss rod slot). Take the neck down to that line with the tools you are most comfortable with - I would use my favorite little block plane. When you are close to the line stop.

Do the same thing with the fret board - when you are close to the line make a shooting board (glue some 80 or 100 grit sand paper to a flat board, clamp a right angle guide to it) and use that to get the sides of the fretboard straight and true. Decide if you are going to fret before or after gluing it on (advantages to both), assemble the board to neck, and take the final little bit off the neck to match the board.

The sides of the neck are now going to be straight and you need to radius them to your prefered shape. I would suggest making a couple of templates - one for the nut and one for about fret 9 or 10 (since the SM 000 is a 12 fretter you want to go as high on the neck before you run into the heel). I prefer a spokeshave, but didn't buy one until I made my first scratch neck - chisels and small planes, followed buy sanding blocks will work pretty good. If you have very large flats consider "faceting" them - make flat cuts at an angle with the plane.

Final shaping can be done with sandpaper "shoe shine" fashion, but if you want to maintaing a Martin style vee be careful - it is pretty easy to take the vee down.

Another way to shape fretboard would be a router with a flush cut bit - just clamp a straight guide on the line and let the router do all the work. Obviously with the fretboard you want to do this on the back to avoid the radius and slots. Its much harder to use a router on the neck - I'd get the f/b accurate and bring the neck to match. I would not try it on a band or table saw unless you build a very good angle guide system (however I use a table saw to cut the scarf joints for headstock). The other problem with a table or band saw is that darn headstock will get in the way.

If you are ordering from some of the other sources besides SM including John Hall you might be able to get a 1-11/16 neck (and 2-1/8 saddle) to start with.

Jun 07, 10 | 12:50 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
I would consider ordering a custom kit from John Hall and he can build the kit to your specs. Save some work and the quality of the kit will be at least as good as the StewMac kit.

Jun 08, 10 | 9:27 am
DP

Total Topics: 0
Total Posts: 0
Thanks for your all's replies. The details are great! I look forward to shaping the neck of my own guitar and I like the idea of using more hand tools than power tools.

Thanks,
Danny

Jun 09, 10 | 9:42 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Well, some old posts were added to this thread.......but they aren't from the thread I started a couple of days ago. It was titled something like "Herman, Dobro Dimensions" (are something similar......definitely had Hermans name in the title).

Freeman, any way you could give me the width of the lower bout and length of the body on your Dobro (I think it was a model 27 or 28, not sure which)? I want to bid on a back/side set that sells today and I want to double check to make sure it is large enough to build a dobro.

Jun 24, 10 | 5:13 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
I meant to say the auction ends today at 5:00 PM central time so if anyone could post dimensions before that time I would appreciate it.

Jun 24, 10 | 5:15 am
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
If figured that there was something in that thread that the moderator didn't like so they deleted it (maybe non-kit content). And this one is sure wonky, LOL.

Ada, I went home, measured mine, got all ready to post and found the thread gone. I'm at work and left the measurements at home so I can't give you the real numbers until tonight, however they were very close to those you had quoted with a couple of exceptions. You had one that I thought might be the waist (I forget the term used, it was kind of weird) - that was different than the waist on mine. The upper and lower bouts were the same, as was the body length and scale (dobros are 25 which is a little odd). My body depth was 3-1/2 at the neck and a little deeper at the butt - again, I can't remember the exact number (I do know that modern builders are going even deeper).

I won't be home until 5:00 Pacific so I probably won't be much help. What auction is this? Did you look a the Beard reso kits? Beard plans?


totally off topic, but one thing that I gripped at Bill Cory about was the lack of editing tools at this site. I hope that is something that gets fixed with the new site

Jun 24, 10 | 6:15 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Thanks for the info Freeman!

My guess is a copy of the forum was made right before my old post was made. Then if that copy of the forum database was installed at the new site it would not have that thread (and may have missed one or two others as well, who knows). Looks like they got most of it right so not a big deal.

Jun 24, 10 | 12:16 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
That link that you posted had some great Dobro history (particularly on page 1) - I printed it and put it with my reso stuff. A little more information about mine - it has three small holes between the soundholes (which is supposed to mean something). It has the mostly squared headstock with the plastic lyre Dobro nameplate - a serial number stamped in the end of the headstock (they say that serial numbers are basically meaningless). It has the squared slots and the original tuners were bent so I replaced them (twice, put some Grovers on it but didn't like them, just changed to the SM vintage 3 on a plate). My coverplate is the early kind with screws at 12 and 6:00, they were later moved so you didn't have to remove the tailpiece to remove the cover. The coverplate says "pat pending".

I got mine from the daughter of the original owner, she said her dad bought it when she was born in 1932 which is how I have dated it (stop and think, that that little buzzer has been making music for almost 80 years! what stories it could tell). It was a basket case when I got it - painted black, cover and cone crushed. I've tried to do the minimum "restoration" to make it playable without doing more damage - the only thing that is not original besides the tuners is the cone (Quarterman), bridge inserts and nut. I did a very mild burst and put some nitro on it, but I really didn't try to do a perfect finish (nor did I try to relic it).

Since I built the tricone I haven't been playing the old 27, so I'm going to convert it back to lap play - that is why I need to take the cover off. I'll post the dimensions and a couple of pics tonight.

Jun 24, 10 | 1:21 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
OK, here we go. All measurements are within 1/16 with the following exceptions. Mine has a 9" waist, he lists "bight" at 8-11/16. Mine is 3-5/16 deep at the butt and 3 at the neck - he lists 3-1/2. My nut width is 1-7/8, a tiny bit more than the 1-13/16 he gives. Otherwise pretty much the same.

Here are a few shots of mine

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/Freeman_Keller/Resonators/Dobroheads.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/Freeman_Keller/Resonators/IMG_2403.jpg

(the neck stick end just inside the cone well, there is a little wedge and screw that sets the neck angle)

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/Freeman_Keller/Resonators/IMG_2400.jpg

hope it helps

Jun 24, 10 | 3:35 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Thanks for those pictures and the dimensions Freeman. I ended up not buying the back/side set that was up for auction......went above my price range.

For the record, here is the link I posted in the original thread:

http://www.cybergrass.com/Articles/041195-2.html

Jun 27, 10 | 7:48 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
BTW Freeman, do you know why there is a trend to deeper bodies on newer models? Is it for better tone? Are modern Dobros made deeper as well? Just wondering about fitting a case later.

Jun 27, 10 | 7:51 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
I really don't know about the depth - there are a number of inovations on newer spider bridge instruments (sound well design, baffles, etc). That stuff gets discussed here all the time

http://www.resohangout.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=31

I'm partical to deeper small bodied guitars so when I built the tricone thats what I did. No good reasons LOL.

For strange and unusual cases I have had very good luck with Cedar Creek. They have custom fit my two small bodied long neck 12 strings (even making a cool little pocket for the tailpiece on one). They are expensive and very long delivery, but IMHO worth it.

http://www.cedarcreekcases.com/

One of these days I'll have them build one for the tricone - right now it is in an old dread case with a bunch of towels stuffed around the sides.


Jun 28, 10 | 9:40 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Freeman, I guess your body length is 19 7/16" on your Dobro as is the length of the Dobro in the article I linked to? I ask because I found another nice back/side set but it is 19 1/4" long so just a little short I'm afraid. It's also not quite wide enough.....but I could glue a wing from the edges of the upper bout onto the lower bout and make that part work. I don't see any way to add 3/16" to the length and make it work, do you?

Jul 07, 10 | 3:42 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Well, I guess I could break tradition and have a 13 fret neck and shorten the upper bout a tad........

Jul 07, 10 | 3:46 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
Early Nat tricones were 11-1/2 frets clear which made them a little tricky to play bottleneck. Most Dobros are 12 fretters but in round necks you'll see both 12 and 14. Remember too that there is no reason to be locked into the 25 inch scale length - particularly on a lap slider (in fact there really is no reason to put frets in a square neck).

Most traditional resonators have no compensation - again with a Stevens steel in you hand (or a broken wine bottle on your pinkie) you have the ultimate intonation corrector.

Jul 08, 10 | 10:43 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Good points Freeman. I guess I was more worried about balance.......or how the instrument fits to your body when being played (if played standing). Also, I had rather not build something that requires a custom case if I can avoid it.

Jul 08, 10 | 4:03 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
You will need a resonator case to clear the coverplate and tailpiece. I have had the best luck with just having Cedar Creek build cases to fit, however they are not cheap or fast.

Lots of dobro players sit, and balance shouldn't matter much (the neck is resting on your knee). For those that play standing with a strap (I'm not one) the strap is always attached to the headstock and tailpiece and takes all the weight of the instrument. You play over the top with both hands - to me it is very awkward (so I sit).

So, do you know how to tell if the stage is level? The dobro player drools out of both sides of his mouth.

Jul 09, 10 | 11:20 am
RayRay

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
FWIW, I found standing wasn't too bad if the strap is the right length...here's an example, Tex used a metal pin also to avoid the possibility of it breaking and dropping the guitar because of the pressure from the weight of the guitar and the players arms on the pin...
My strap was considerably longer than the one seen here..IMHO the issue is the length of the arms, the height of the person...so that the hands fall into position and you are not reaching or trying to back up to find position. just my 2 pennies. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_T-YqkIGgs&feature=related

Jul 09, 10 | 2:19 pm



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