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Deprecated: mysql_escape_string(): This function is deprecated; use mysql_real_escape_string() instead. in /home/bluescreek/domains/kitguitars/pm/db/db.mysql.php on line 236

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First kit: mold, tailblock, headblock questions/problems?
Author
Post
~frank

Total Topics: 2
Total Posts: 25
Introductory thread with pictures http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threads.php?id=5625_0_6_0_C

Here is a clickable thumbnail from that first thread. Notice the pencil line 3/32" to the right of the center joint of the mold. I'm wondering if that is the real centerline for the tailblock. After I fabricated some spreaders and got the sides snug in the mold, the end joint doesn't overlap anymore and it actually lines up with that pencil line. I have to cut the ends at the neck block, so I need to take my best shot at determining the real centerline before gluing the blocks in place.


The next issue is with the tail block and neck block. I have Bill Cory's Martin kit manual. It says:
The neck block should not be cut down at all. The tail
block will probably be too tall; it might be marked with a
line for cutting: Ignore the factory mark. TIP: Never take it
for granted that a factory marked line is correct; measure
the height of the rim at the tail and cut the tail block to that
height, plus about 1/16 providing for 1/32 above and
1/32 below the rim.

My situation is the exact opposite. The tail block is 3/32" shorter than the height of the sides at the end joint. The neck block is 3/32" longer than the sides at the neck joint. The neck block has a pencil line 3/32" up from its bottom edge.

I know how to handle the neck block: cut it off at the line. But what to do with the too-short tail block? I believe it needs to be radiused to fit snug against the top and back. Do I need to replace it?



Jun 04, 10 | 11:33 am
~frank

Total Topics: 2
Total Posts: 25
Quick answer - I had emailed Steve Kovacik about the tail block dimension. He's sending a replacement.

I've done enough measuring on the mold to convince myself that the true centerline of the mold is at its center joint.

John reminded me in an email that Blues Creek has a bunch of videos on YouTube. You all probably already know this, but they are quite helpful.

Thanks everyone for putting up with me. =:)

Now you can return to your regular programming.

~frank

Jun 04, 10 | 1:38 pm
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
We are all here to help. We all started and made the same mistakes. This is to be fun and to till the truth , I still get a kick out of a new guitar. If you can make it to the open house you are most welcome

John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc.
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center


Jun 04, 10 | 3:18 pm
~frank

Total Topics: 2
Total Posts: 25
John, I wish I could make the open house, but my travel plans are locked in for this summer. Maybe I can make next one.

I told you in an email that I thought there was an issue with the sides. I took them out to determine the mold's true centerline. After watching the video you linked in your email and careful consideration of the 3D geometry involved, I have determined there isn't a problem with the sides. When they are carefully put in the mold there's less than 1/32" distortion at the neck block end. Thus, I plan to leave them in the mold for a week or so until I get the replacement tail block from Steve, then continue work on the body.

Thanks again for all your help. I'll be going through your videos for a while. Lots of good information there.

~frank

Jun 04, 10 | 3:47 pm
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
Thanks for the feed back. that is what this forum is about
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc.
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center

Jun 04, 10 | 4:14 pm



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