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Back strip installation
Author
Post
Haggis

Total Topics: 3
Total Posts: 9
Hi
The back pieces are pre shaped in my Martin Kit! However, IŽm not sure how I should get the back strip between the pieces. Should I put the back strip between the pices and glue them together.....or should I glue the pieces togehter first, and afterwards use a dremel or similar to make a cut to fit the strip in....and sanding it down to the correct thickness?
/haggis

May 07, 10 | 12:57 pm
Running Dog

Total Topics: 1
Total Posts: 103
Martin sandwiches the strip between the two halves. I don't like that system, preferring to inlay the strip into a well-joined back but it's personal preference. You should check the back against your plans to determine if there's enough material to join, rout, and inlay or if the back is trimmed so close that you need the extra width of the strip.

May 07, 10 | 4:12 pm
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
I am of the Martin school . I do place them between the plates. There is more than one way to do anything. Find the technique that works best for you.

John Hall
Blues Creek Guitar Inc.
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center

May 08, 10 | 8:34 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Well -- I do it both ways -- if its a fairly solid strip like the D35 w/b/w, some HB or just a plain accent strip I pinch glue them while joining the back halves using this system

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/JointingToporBackhalves.html

-- note the clamping caul has a channel to accomodate a strip that is thicker than the back plate. For Zig-Zag and finer strips, like Rick, I also have a set-up to route a center channel.

Ken

May 08, 10 | 9:30 am
Haggis

Total Topics: 3
Total Posts: 9
If I choose to glue the strip between the plates..could it be difficult to get it well joined? Should I hold the strip against the edges towards a light source as without the strip?

Also I havenŽt been able to get the pieces flat. I think IŽll put a weight on them while gluing, using your technicue Ken.

Thanks for your answers.
/haggis

May 08, 10 | 11:21 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
The clamping caul that runs down the center joint should have a bow in it -- so when you clamp the ends the middle will naturally force down the two halves near the center length-wise. Make no mistake the joint must be "perfect' -- no light showing through. The strip hides nothing, as a matter of fact a poor joint will lead to an appearance defect on both sides of the trim.

Ken

May 08, 10 | 11:49 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
I agree with Ken . The technique you choose isn't as important as how well you joint the plates.

John Hall
Blues Creek Guitar Inc.
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center

May 08, 10 | 2:22 pm
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
Haggis, a couple of little tricks that I have found helpful whether I am using a back stripe or not. I've always done the "martin method" (sides butted against the stripe). It is very hard to hold two or three thin pieces of wood together for a butt joint while you glue them - here is one method.

First shoot the back pieces perfectly - hold them up against a window and make sure absolutely no light shows between them. I then put a piece of waxed paper on the deck of my go bar, put a thin piece of wood or metal about 1/16 to 1/8 thick and 2 inches wide (I use an old straight edge) where the seam is to be. Position the back stripe and sides on that spacer (no glue yet) and clamp a board on each side tight against the outsides of the back pieces. Usually the sides are not square - this is good because the boards will wedge them slightly.

Lift the sides and back stripe up, applie glue and put them back between the two boards on top of the 1/8 inch spacer. While holding down, pull the spacer out (best to pull towards the narrower spacing of the outside boards - it increases the wedge). Apply your caul and downward clamps on the center seam (a couple on the outside edge of the back too). Removing the spacer will cause just a little more pressure on the seam.

I try to get the back seam graft (the piece of spruce that runs the lenght of the seam) on as soon as possible after butting the pieces - it has always seemed like it would be easy to break that joint. Then scrape the outside of the seam so the back and stripe are all level - if you did a good job of clamping there should be very little scraping.

Works for me on both backs and tops (no stripes, obviously)

May 11, 10 | 5:57 am
Haggis

Total Topics: 3
Total Posts: 9
Freeman. If I undertand you correctly? I think..I've found a similar method on YouTube that youŽre describing...In the end of this clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xOJAjdGZUY

Same procedure, but no spacer.

May 16, 10 | 3:58 am



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