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Progress on my third
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wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Well I finally got to order my wood and begin the process. It's been rough this winter and the humidity is making me suffer a long time. It's the first day of spring and it was 65 degrees yesterday and snowing 6 inches today. Absolutely crazy here in Kansas right now but I did get started on my next one today.

So this one is Walnut and Redwood. I know there are a couple of them running around but I guess I will fit in well. So far I have cut out my top and inlaid my mahogany rosette, cut my fingerboard and also inlaid it. Got some pics to share with you guys and will update as progress comes along. Hopefully the weather will cooperate soon so I can get to gluing. Until then.....

This is by far THE BEST rosette I have inlaid yet. It took me a couple of guitars to get it right but I would say this one turned out beautifully.



I was really proud of this fingerboard too. I did have one small gap in one of them but the rest were almost perfect. Overall I am happy with this one and think it will look great on a walnut neck as well.



Just wanted to give you an idea of what she will look like. I'm excited.



Not the best quality top but it will work. Didn't want to waste a lot of money when I'm still working out the bugs of my process' anyway.


Mar 20, 10 | 6:14 pm
John S.

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 94
Your rosette installation looks seamless-- you should be pleased! Funny how some of the previously intimidating steps aren't quite so much so after you have a couple under your belt. Are the fretboard binding and fret position markers maple? Which method of binding the fretboard did you use?

I'll look forward to seeing the final product.

John

Mar 21, 10 | 5:57 am
naccoachbob

Total Topics: 26
Total Posts: 257
Good job, Wingman. The fretboard with its binding and the markers are really distinctive and add a lot to the look. Very cool.

Mar 21, 10 | 6:07 am
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Yeah the inlay and the binding is maple. It will match the binding for the body. I haven't glued on the binding yet to the fretboard but honestly don't know the different ways to do it. I had planned on using the flat side of my fretboard and sanding back down on the radius side.

You are right John, it does get much less intimidating once you get a few under the belt and one looks good....lol

Mar 21, 10 | 11:24 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Nice! I had a similar fingerboard design in mind, though it was with long triangles instead of rectangles. i just didn't trust myself to cut them smoothly enough, and I have a ton of the dots. Dots it is. Yours looks good so far!

Mar 21, 10 | 11:41 am
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
I used the down cut spiral bit for the most of the removal for my inlays. I got it close enough to fit in but it left the edges round so I put tape on a dental burr, which I got a bag FULL from my dentist(just ask for old ones), and squared up the corner. Used a little dust from routing the channel and got all of them except one really close to perfect. I wanted something other than the dots too. I was a little bored with dots. Plus I ended up doing better with this than the dots.....lol

Mar 21, 10 | 7:58 pm
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Ok I've been bracing my top and I have a few questions. I need some constructive criticism. I don't have a great grasp on the whole tap tone thing so I was wondering if you guys would see anything wrong with my bracing as it is. The middle braces are scalloped and the lowest point is about 14mm. The lower bout braces are dialing in about 13mm tall and the finger braces are shorter than that, I don't know how high as I didn't measure the,. I thought that they were small enough.

My main concern is how much the top is suppossed to ring out. It does ring but the sustain is not overwhelming. Is this normal. Anyone know how many seconds it should last? I'm totally clueless at this point and wanted to ask before I glued up to my rim.

And yes before someone asks, I did use 2 different kinds of wood on my bracing. The X brace is sitka spruce and the others are engleman. I'm not trying anything fancy just working on getting my build right before I really stress about anything like that. FYI....





And just for looks I threw in a pic of my end graft. Not perfect as there are a few gaps but I think I can fill in pretty easy.


Apr 01, 10 | 10:03 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
I like the sound hole reinforcement...cleaner look than the triple braces typically seen. I may try that some time on my next sound-hole deigned guitar.

I noticed that you scalloped all sides of the X-braces. From what I understand (may be incorrectly) most often the upper bout braces are not scalloped....there is a posibility the bridge could rotate if they are weakened too much. Also, many times the treble brace is not scalloped, or is less scalloped than the other. Overbuilt gutiars will exhibit far more treble than bass, so scalloping the bass lower bout brace will theoretically open up the bass end of the guitar. I scallop all of them myself, but have been working with a different method of construction lately, and not certain it would apply here. Your braces are plenty thick enough, though, so I wouldn't be concerned with any issues. The whole guitar may open up! Looks good so far.

Apr 01, 10 | 2:28 pm
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Well I will say this. The reason I scalloped the top side is because they were around 20 mm thick to begin with. I didn't want to leave them that tall as most of my measurements for my OOO is around 13 or so for the brace total height.

Yeah the reason I did the soundhole bracing that way is I liked the looks better as well. Plus it's just an extra piece of an old top I used. Figured I would put it to good use.

Apr 01, 10 | 7:13 pm



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