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Every step brings new knowledge for me

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 67
You know I am constantly being amazed at how each step of this journey is bringing a new piece of information.

In the past I have only, in a very small way, worked with softwoods and certainly never touched a raw piece of RW let alone worked it.

Yesterday with the soundboard completed I decided to look at the RW back. Put it on the shooting board to square and first thing hit me was that it was a LOT harder to shoot than the spruce top! It took me hours to get it straight enough to join. And eventually, join I did.

This morning I got up and cleaned the glue off and then it hit me that I used the wrong adhesive. I used Titebond instead of Epoxy!! Now I got to hope that it holds together. I was thinking of using Epoxy for the seam strip at least if the join gave way the strip would hold it until I managed to effect a repair.

Anyway, I digress. I cleaned up the joint which I was extremely pleased with. The side I have chosen for 'outside', the join is very difficult to see. If it wasn't for the book matched pattern I wouldn't know where to start looking. I was amazed. The inside only has a small 15mm hairline at one end of the plate!

Digressing again ... to the point. I have started to thin the plate and jeepers ... Using 80 grit on a RO sander and it has taken nearly 2 hours to lose 2mm. I am afraid to use my plane in case I snag the wood and leave horrible plane marks. I still have at least 1mm to go, assuming I go to 2.5mm thick plate.

So my lesson for today is learn to use the damn plane with confidence.


Mar 17, 10 | 6:16 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
There's no need to use epoxy on Rosewood --- Titebond works very well (its what's used in the factories without fear of warranty problems) plus you are going to have cross-grain seam reinforcements on the joint. $.02


Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Mar 17, 10 | 7:28 am

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
thanks for that Ken ... it's just that I hear epoxy all the time on RW seems.

Mar 17, 10 | 7:57 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
No boo's please -- There is no doubt that the small shop builder can and do invest much more time, love and care to each instrument then the big time manufacturers -- Martin, Taylor, Larrivee, Lowden, -- that's what they are selling. But when in need of assurance relative to structure or process the big boys have it down pat and its worth finding out what they do --- they do not want the guitars returned with problems and complaints. $.02


Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Mar 17, 10 | 8:16 am
Running Dog

Total Topics: 1
Total Posts: 103
I'm in complete agreement with Ken Cierp here. Epoxy is unnecessary here and will show a wide glue line. I only use it when it's really necessary, as in bonding CF, and the line doesn't matter.

Mar 17, 10 | 9:36 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
+2 to Ken and Rick -- I've never used epoxy on Rosewood and never had a failure with titebond or with LMI white glue.

Mar 17, 10 | 10:27 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Same here....don't worry about titebond in that joint.

Mar 18, 10 | 10:05 am

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Cool ... Well it is thinned to 2.5mm. I had to plane in the end. Sanding was far too difficult and planing wasn't that bad. A few little nicks but they are on the inside and final sanding all but smoothed them out.

Joint still looks damned good. I cant believe how good it is. I really surprised myself. Bracing up over the next couple of days. Think I might construct a little go bar deck.

Thanks for all the positive votes it has eased my mind and I now know that the thing wont fall apart as soon as I brace it!

Mar 18, 10 | 1:41 pm

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