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My other latest- OM
Author
Post
leftykitman

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 139
Yes this is my first "Righty" That sounds weird doesn't it. This guitar was made along side of my Maple Jumbo.Two guitars over the winter(here it is almost August) just KILLLED me-or was that my wife that was going to kill me.Anyway here's the specs.
All top grade woods BTY.
Heavy bearclaw sitka top
East Indian rosewood B/sides
Flamed Maple bindings-wood cut from the Maple Jumbo.
Torch headplate inlay-yes I inlayed it.
Dovetail neck joint
KTM-9 finished
Pyramid bridge-Yes I made it.
Matching red heart abalone rosette and torch peghead inlay from Depaule.
I believe this guitar is my finest so far.I must admit I wish it were mine and I'm going to hate to let her go but.... Really I don't know what I'm going to do with it yet.I might sell it or give it to my friend-I really don't know,but I'm DYING to hear it I can't play it so I'll have to have somebody play it fior me so I can hear it.








I did notice some white specs in some of the pics-that is just white flaks from the laquer-sorry for the louse pics.
Peace,
Paul




Jul 23, 06 | 3:39 pm
ejko

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 113
How many hundred have you built prior to this one?

Ed

Jul 23, 06 | 4:41 pm
Ted

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 158
Lefty, I am your friend and right handed - Give it to me! I would love it forever as I do today. The binding is outstanding and the inlay, beautiful. If my eyesight is still working, does the label inside say "use light strings"? Why is this? Do you not trust your craftsmanship? PLEASE tell me you are flawed in some way. I am extremely jealous of you talent and this fine piece.

Jul 26, 06 | 1:46 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Paul -- that's another beauty! Wow. So, you want someone to play it? Send it to me ... I'll play it! (Oh, you wanted to BE THERE to hear it? Darn.)

I noted that there's a label in this one. I think it belongs there!

This is another beautiful piece of work. In about five years, if I'm lucky, I should get to this point ... if I'm lucky.

Bill

Jul 26, 06 | 5:18 am
ms960

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 107
Another stunning guitar. I hope someday to get to that point!

Jul 26, 06 | 6:23 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Gorgeous!

Jul 26, 06 | 6:26 am
Dennis Weatherly

Total Topics: 73
Total Posts: 651
Beautiful! I really like your choice of woods and binding. And the backstrip is definitely cool and different.

Mind if I ask a question? You have mitered the B/W/B trim along the binding and end graft. Would you mind laying out the steps you followed to route, fit and miter the binding, trim and end graft? I want to do the same thing on my 000 and I'm struggling with the order of the steps involved. Thanks!

Jul 26, 06 | 11:14 am
jhowell

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 676
Paul--

This guitar is just gorgeous! Really nice job on the inlay. Inquiring minds need to know if the KTM-9 was sprayed and also if you used Frank Ford's tutorial to carve the bridge?

My hat is off to you!

--Jim

Jul 26, 06 | 2:45 pm
leftykitman

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 137
Thanks for all the kind comments. I will say that although This is my best guitar as far as atractive woods, purfiling, and bling goes it's definatly not perfect.I have been plinking around with it(upsides down) and it does have some fret buzzes and it's because it does have a slight hump at the 14th fret, enough that I'm going to have to pull the frets and replane the fingerboard ( I'm probably being picky but If I was going to buy it I'd want it perfect).The guitar does have a dovetail neck joint(I used a Precarved neck) and it will surely be my last dovetail.I personally don't believe that there's and tone differance between a bolt on and a dovetail if the necks are similarily stiff.
With that said another issue is that(I'm bareing my soul here) is that I used a top radius that's smaller than I'm used to useing and even though I made my pryramid bridge slightly wider(I 1/16 wide as compared to a standard 1 wide) as to give it more weight(It's also slightly higher) to me pryramid bridges require a lighter bracing to drive things because of the lighter weight.Also the smaller radiused top IS stiffer and requires a adjustment in how you carve the braces Bottom line is that I might have to do some shaving on the X braces to get it to where I like it. I'd much rather have things too stiff than too weak, you can always go in and shave the X mains more,and I'd be that if you could get a HONEST answer out of some of the more established builders Id bet that some of them do some "After the fact" shaving also. I may have micalculated a little on the stiff side-live and learn!!!
Ted- I said to use lights string on the label to "Cover my butt" after all this is a fingerstyle guitar and I don't know too many fingerstylers who use mediums- a precautionary measure!!! With a bolt on neck I probably wouldn't have said this but with a dovetail and light bracing and the hassles doing a neck reset I'd say use lights.
Bill- Come on Bill I've seen your guitars and they are also beautifull,your there bro!! Don't sell yourself short.
Dennis- On the end graft I started with a longer piece of maple-it gets cut lenghtwise later.Then I dryfitted the maple piece along with the bwb purfling, in the endgraft channel, slightly trimming the angles on the purfling slowly until they would line up with the trimmed bwb purfling on the top and back angled purfling.It's kinda hard to explain and it was a pain(you need three hands) but you just have to trim in small increments to get the angles and length right. I did glue the endgraft and purfling in(line it up as best you can,useing scrap pieces of BWB set on the bottom of the top binding channel) to set your location. after the binding channels were cut but before the tiop and back binding were glued in.After you glued the endgraft in and are ready to glue the bindings on then you trim the ends of the endgraft down to match the top of the purfling on the top and back bindings (confused yet?) .
Thanks again
Paul

Jul 26, 06 | 3:26 pm
Dennis Weatherly

Total Topics: 73
Total Posts: 651
Thanks Paul, that wasn't confusing at all. I've been struggling with whether to route the binding channel before or after gluing in the end graft. Before would make the routing easier, but it means you need to fit the graft-to-binding joint by hand. After allows a tigher graft-to-binding joint (potentially) but you have to adjust the channel depth a bit shallower when you get to the graft. And you have to finish the B/W/B "channel" by hand for a short distance. I don't like the idea of tweaking the router settings after I start the cut! So it sounds like I'll route first, then fit the graft-to-binding by hand.

Jul 26, 06 | 3:47 pm
leftykitman

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 137
Jim-Thanks for you kind comments. The KTM was BRUSHED on as was the Maple jumbo. Think both guitars finish came out really nice, I might be getting the hang of it.It also helps that I'm a machinist and have been polishing parts(Metal but the principals still apply) for a long time. Also concerning the bridge, I made it at work on a manual mill,copying the dimentions from a stew-mac righty bridge I got with my stew-mac 000-12 kit. I made a bunch of pryamids at work and my bosses allow us to make anything we want!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know how I could make alot of things if it wasn't for doing them at work.
Dennis- Definatly cut the binding channels before you glue the end graft in.Then after the end graft is glued in bump up your cutter to route off the endgraft to make it flush with the BWB on the top and binding channel.It'll come out nice if you are carefull with the depth.
Jim,When I was doing the torch inlay and test fitting it I dropped all the pieces on the floor(Duh) and lost two of the dots and had to make two of the three dots over (Top two on the outside)by hand and what a PAIN.
Paul

Jul 26, 06 | 4:11 pm
leftykitman

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 137
Oh if I made add a few more comments. I used Grover vintage sta-tites on this guitar and a word of caution.On the LMI precarved neck the peghead is pretty thick-well the tuner posts on the Grovers are BARELY are long enough and the tuning post holes are not consistant on where their drilled on the posts-consequently theirs barely enough room for the strings on the posts two windings on some of the posts.I might switch to Waverlies if I can detect a longer post.To me if I was buying this guitar and saw that, it would be a issue so be carefull.
Also some commented on the backstrip-It's one of those "Inlay bandings" that somebody asked about in another thread.Woodcraft carries these and thier pretty fraglie and thin (.040).
Paul

Jul 26, 06 | 4:29 pm
JimB

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 89
Lefty - great bound fingerboard - what process did you use? I see the frets are slightly into the binding there/ any info a plus =

thanks

JB

Aug 01, 06 | 9:01 am
Phlytyer (Keith)

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 273
Lefty:

Thanks for helping me figure out my heel plate and end graft. I will be using maple binding also and your picks have really helped me solve undecided issues.

- Keith

Aug 18, 06 | 10:43 am
canuckplaya

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 81
lol I guess you all disagree with me, but I Have to say I like your flamed maple guitar in term of the looks. It has a certian flare I have it as a desktop picture, but im one person lol.

This one I can imagine will have a beautiful light sound its going to sound amazing.

are you going to put a sound clip on bills site I would love to here both of them

Aug 21, 06 | 11:45 am



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