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Shooting board technique help please
Author
Post
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 67
Hi all ... I have started on the front and decided on using the shooting board technique to square the two halves of the Alpine Spruce soundboard.

So, I set it all up got out my 14" jack and took 3 smooth swipes across the face taking off about 1/10th mm with each pass. Checked against a light and found the midle nice and tight but the edges about a quarter way in showing light.

Back on the shooting board and another 3 passes. One end tight but a little light in the middle ... several more attempts made but so far no success.

My concern is that I have about 10mm to play with on the soundboard but the RW back is very tight with just a couple of mm. I need to get this right. I have taken about 3mm off the soundboard already.

Can anyway offer an alternative method or tips to make the plane and shooting board more successful?

Thanks.

Mar 03, 10 | 11:09 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
You might try a sanding block to take just a little off the high areas. What I have done is use a long square sanding block, with a piece of tape under the sanding strip in the area I am high, and with just a few passes, it usually compensates for the uneven pressure of the sanding process.
Hope this idea helps.

Kevin

Mar 03, 10 | 1:24 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
I've only joined plates for 2 guitars, but try taking short passes just over where it is tight. The sanding block trick worked for me too, (i actually backed the blade off on my plane and used that to back the paper) and might be a good choice when its real close and and you don't want to lose anymore material.

It does feel like you are chasing the gap around.
Darren

Mar 03, 10 | 2:38 pm
llajoy

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 295
I always start with a few passes using my jack plane, 4 - 6, not too deep. Once the edges are fairly close I sand. I use a two foot aluminum level with sand paper on the one side. The level is nice and flat, and after about a minute of going back and forth a few inches the seam is usually set.

What happens with a plane or a short block is you will almost always take off more on the ends when they roll over. The 2 ft level stays square as you're sanding in the center of the block.

Lance.

Mar 03, 10 | 2:47 pm
llajoy

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 295
btw, I do both on the shooting board.

Lance.

Mar 03, 10 | 2:48 pm
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
I used a level to take some material off of a fretboard to ready it for binding. Worked like a charm. Not quite the same procedure though.

Mar 03, 10 | 6:37 pm
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Thanks guys ... Darren you are absolutely right I feel like I am chasing the gap. I will give the sanding a go.

Mar 03, 10 | 10:50 pm
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Well I tried the sanding idea, first with a 1m PLASTIC level that I had in the shed. I could see that it was working but it had just a little too much play in the plastic so went out and bought a 60cm alluminium one.

Wow ... fantastic job. Looked pretty tight to me so I glued it up and now I'll take a look in the morning and see what it looks like. It's just after midnight here so I'm off to get some sleep. Let you all know what it looks like tomorrow.

Mar 04, 10 | 3:12 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
one of my favorite things is waking up and pulling off the clamps (or what have you) to see what dried the night before - a few scrapes with a razor blade tomorrow morning will give you a peak at the first of many successes.

Mar 04, 10 | 4:24 pm
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Ok guys I used the sanding method as described and it worked a treat. I have now sanded both sides of the soundboard and planed to tickness. The join is barely visible on the lower half below the soundhole, which I have cut and inlayed a rossett, but is a little more visible above the soundhole. Not worried about this because it will be covered by the fretboard.

Starting to get excited now things are taking shape.

Mar 09, 10 | 10:44 am
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
Another poor soul is hooked on building. YAHOO!!!

Mar 11, 10 | 7:32 pm
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Hay you ! .... I may be poor and I may be hooked but .... who am I kidding ... yeah your right! lol

Mar 11, 10 | 11:01 pm
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
PaulF,
I have considered trying to get my brother into building since I am sure he would love it. But he really gets hooked on things easily and since building is so addicting, I have decided to tell him NOT to build. I am trying to save him some money!

Mar 12, 10 | 4:54 am
PaulF

Total Topics: 28
Total Posts: 65
Well, the interesting thing is Tony, I have wanted a decent guitar for about 30 years but somehow could never afford one. The kids, the car, the house always seemed to want the money more. About the best guitar I have ever owned is my current one, a Jim Deacon which cost me 130. (about $200 I believe)

I was made redundant a little while ago and now in my 50's no-one is interested in employing me so I thought I would make my own guitar. After all how hard can it be? ... then I was hit smack bang in the middle of my reality check. It's a lot harder than I thought but it is my FIRST build and I decided to go it alone from scratch and I am soooo enjoying the challenge.

I look forward to getting it on show for all your constructive comments!! I have made some errors and each operation is a learning curve but so far no major disasters ... mainly cosmetic errors.

Mar 12, 10 | 5:16 am
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
I'll bet you its going to sound great. Thats a big task, a scratch build the first time out. Good luck with the rest of the build!

Mar 12, 10 | 6:41 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Great to hear, Paul. Some of us have made some pretty awesome guitars out of some pretty fantastic disasters.

Mar 12, 10 | 7:45 pm



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