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00 12-Fret
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Post
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
Figured it was about time to post some work-in-process (WIP) photo's for the 00-12 Fret model I am building. Ken (KMG) was able to massage a 000-12F drawing to come up with the basic shape and layout. Taking that information I was able to create a template, mold, and bending form. So far it has worked out pretty well. I'm in the process of final neck shaping, fitting, and adjusting. Hopefully I will start finishing in the next week. I'll post some more pictures as available. I believe that Ken will soon be offering a 00-12F Kit. As with the J-200 I recently built, I'm not sure why there's not more interest in the 00-12F. Lot's of history there!





Jan 26, 10 | 7:23 pm
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
Looking good!

Jan 26, 10 | 7:40 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
WOw! nice clean work! Can't wait to see it finished!

Jan 26, 10 | 10:44 pm
John S.

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 94
Really first rate work. Is it your first?

Jan 27, 10 | 3:14 pm
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
Nothing fancy for finish. As usual, I'll use Behlen's Vinyl Sealer and Instrument Lacquer. I also use Behlen's Pore-O-Pak filler on the neck and Mcfadden's Oil Based filler on the Sides and Back. I kicked around using a toner on the top (Englemann) to "age" the finish, but for a variety of reasons I'm not going down that path.

This is my second build (see "First Build - J200). Even though I'm good friends with Ken from KMG, I typically scratch build. I really like making my own necks and building models that are not typically offered in kits. With a little more exposure I'm hoping that models like the J-200 will start to appear on the "kit" market.

Jan 27, 10 | 3:59 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Yeah Dave,
that looks really nice. I like to see such clean work, I try and do the same on mine.

Kevin

Jan 27, 10 | 4:25 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Are those the gold 'Evo' frets?
Did you find them hard on your tools?

Beautiful work, by the way.


Darren

Jan 30, 10 | 4:30 pm
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
Very nice looking guitar, Dave!

Ken

Jan 31, 10 | 8:54 am
enalnitram (Martin Lane)

Total Topics: 47
Total Posts: 332
Dave, it looks wonderful. You're really scaring me. Your second guitar, and already your talking about what you "typically" do, making necks, as well as the custom models you're making. You're right behind Hundley, leaving the rest of us in the dust!

Jan 31, 10 | 12:30 pm
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
I just completed the 00-12F. Other than dropping the body during finish, the build went fairly straight forward. I'd rather build than repair. The finish is Behlen's Instrument Lacquer with a few applications of McFadden Rosewood Pore filler. The Top is E-Spruce supplied by KMG-Ken. I choose not to apply a toner to the top. Even though the top is very white I like the contrast.








I included a picture of "Big Brother" & "Little Brother"

Mar 14, 10 | 3:39 pm
naccoachbob

Total Topics: 26
Total Posts: 257
Dave,
Nicely done. I really like the top like it is. It's a great looking guitar.
Bob

Mar 14, 10 | 4:15 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Dave,
It turned out great. That is really a white top!
Good job.

Kevin

Mar 14, 10 | 6:34 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Very Classy!

Mar 15, 10 | 9:56 am
Charles Kuo

Total Topics: 43
Total Posts: 222
Hi Dave,
Love that slotted peghead and the ebony pyramid bridge. Whew, nice work.

-Charles

Mar 15, 10 | 12:11 pm
deadedith

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 165
Hey Dave - I'll be getting another kit from KMG next week, also with the englemann top.
May I ask how you kept such a white top immaculately clean through the build process? It looks great, but other than taping a piece of posterboard or cardboard to the top, I don't have any other clues as to how to maintain that purity.

Anyone got ideas?
Thanks
Dave B
Lotta Daves around here too :-)

Mar 15, 10 | 2:53 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Beautiful Job, Dave. Well done.

Mar 16, 10 | 10:19 am
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
Dave B.,

No real special precautions other than the obvious. Prior to assembly I usually stack the top and back with support on the top and bottom (usually templates/patterns) & seperated with paper. After assembly I always put a towel or similar on my work bench. Don't forget that you will give the top a thorough sanding prior to finish, so you will be able to sand out light defects. I recommend that you sand the top last, as the spruce is much softer than the Rosewood (in this case).

Keep in mind that the pictures don't show every "nook and cranny". While the top is pretty clean I do have some scratches in the E-Spruce. As mentioned in my recent updates, the body actually dropped during finishing. This unfortunately left some small scratches on the Soundboard. I really didn't notice them until I was rubbing out the lacquer.

I think you're idea of taping posterboard or cardboard to the top is good. I would put a soft cotton rag (or similar) between the cardboard and the top.


Mar 17, 10 | 12:50 pm
deadedith

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 165
Thanks Dave H!
Dave B

Mar 17, 10 | 3:18 pm
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
Wow! Looks great. I wonder if my Engleman will look that white. I like it.
If I could make one suggestion though...Don't drop your guitars! Ever. Especially during finishing! I am really beginning to like slotheads. I was always partial to non-slotted pegheads, but lately I am loving the slotties!

Mar 17, 10 | 6:07 pm
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
Tony,

Thanks for your insights on not dropping the guitar (just kiddin'). Like most mistakes it was rooted in rushing. I put two small eye-bolts in the neck bolt holes and then suspend the guitar body from some #14 standard electrical wire. I bend the wire with a small hook at the end, very similar to a fishing leader clasp. When I raised the body to spray the bottom (tail wedge area) the clasp must have come undone. When it was lowered back it was no longer secured and fell almost immediately. While it happened in a second it felt like hours. As a wise friend once told me "learn from others mistakes - not your own". I now wrap the wire securely to avoid this problem.

I used a slotted head because it is standard on almost all 12 Fret models. I've typically not seen it on 14 Fret necks. It was also one of those "challenges" that I felt obligated to try. I also figured that if I make my own necks there's no reason not to give it a try. It is though sort of a PITA! Once completed it does though provide another level of detail that adds to the character of the instrument. If you purchase your necks, there's no reason not to give it a try. KMG Ken has developed a CNC program for the slot head that looks great. His latest OM Cut-Away has this feature. I saw it the other night and was very impressed. How about building a 00-12F or even a 12 Fret Dreadnought? Ken can weigh in on this one, but the sound from both, especially the D-Model should be very, very impressive. I'm currently kicking around a 12F/12S D-Model. Ken has a pattern for the 12F D-Model. Note that this is a "big" guitar, almost 1 1/2" longer than a standard "D". When we compared the pattern to a J-200 we found that they were similar in size, other than the slight difference in lower bout width (16" vs 17").

I'll bet your E-Spruce Top will be fairly white, as you may have gotten material from the same billet that I got from Ken for the 00.

Dave

Mar 18, 10 | 4:16 am
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
Dave,

Regarding not dropping your guitar, I am an insightful guy sometimes! LOL

Can you tell me why a 12 fret Dread is bigger than a 14 fretter? A 12 fret dread with a slot head is not a bad idea. The shorter scale would make it easier to play, and since I rarely get above the 10th fret, I dont need all of those extra ones anyway! It would be like a "green guitar" since I am saving the environment by not wasting all of that extra fret wire and wood for the neck!
As for building a 00, or anything other than a dread for that matter, for the time being, I have the KMG Masterworks mold for a dread. Came as part of my Success Kit. Anyway, it is solid as a rock and I have built two boxes in it so far, and I can see it lasting for many, many more, so I am going to stick with dreadnoughts for now. I would love to build something smaller in the future though, and I will probably buy KMG's Mega Mold when the time comes.
Ken has great stuff (and if he can put up with my ridiculous sense of humor, he must be a pretty good guy) so I am going to continue to buy from him for now.
Both of my Engleman tops from KMG are pretty white. Quite a contrast to the Sitka topped guitar I have at home already. I like it.

Mar 18, 10 | 5:25 am
longbow

Total Topics: 4
Total Posts: 74
Two of my favorite models, How do they sound? 12 ft.'s have a sound in a class of there own. I'm going to try to make one, but 12 ft. necks are hard to find or expensive. I'll end up making my own. Just great work,very nice. Dave L.

Mar 18, 10 | 5:37 am
DaveH

Total Topics: 5
Total Posts: 20
Tony,

While being far from knowledgable on Acoustic Guitar Design, the basic answer is that 12 Fret Models have two additional frets over the soundboard. If you take a look at the Martin Website ("Selecting Your Martin") you can see thumbnails of all of their models side by side. When you look at the 12 Fret Models you will notice that the upper bout is obviously longer. I built the 00 with a 25.4" scale (Martin "second" FB). The spacing between the 12th & 14th fret is approximately 1.35". This sort of explains the additional length of these guitars when compared to a 14F model. The 12F D-Model pattern that Ken showed is likewise approximately 1.35" longer when compared to the Standard Square Shoulder D. I'm sure someone with access to more detailed spec's can confirm this.

If I build a 12F/12S Dread I will not use a Slotted Head. The sides of the Slotted Head are only 5/16" wide and I would definitely be concerned about overall strength (better safe than sorry or just plain chicken - take your pick!).

I also noticed that 12f SH necks are not inexpensive. It seemed that the going rate was around $180. I'm sure you can spend more, but probably not less. I typically spend around $50-$60 for Neck Materials. I make my necks as a five piece construction. This method is wastefull in that I end up using only 30% of the basic glue-up. I am though more comfortable with this construction method. I'm sure others prefer a quarter sawn glue-up method with wastes less wood.

Mar 18, 10 | 7:06 am
Tony_in_NYC

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 448
Ha! Dave, I was joking about the 12 fret being a "green" guitar. The wood savings I was referring to was the extra 1.35 inches clear of the body! Plus the 4 inches or fret wire. Thats like an aluminum can I am saving right there!
I know it was neither a good joke, nor an obvious one, but they cant all be gems!
Someone here made a 12 fret slot head. I cant remember who right off the top of my head, but I know it was made. However, it was a "Stella" clone and I believe tuned down a bit. So less string tension on the SH.

Mar 18, 10 | 9:06 am



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