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masking bridge location TruOil

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 167
So this morning I finished final sanding, cleaned up a bit, and thought I'd see how the TruOil would look on the neck. Told myself I was only going to do the neck (its off the body) and then mask off the bridge location... you know what happened next. Yep 15 minutes later i'm admiring my work and d'oh, in my excitement kept on going and got a coat on the body.

At this point, I know I can either sand down the top, mask, and start over, or just keep laying down coats and scrape back under the bridge when it's time for gluing it down. Both will work - but what would you guys recommend? Is one easier or result in a cleaner glue joint?



Jan 16, 10 | 8:11 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
If you only have one coat on the top, I'd sand it off, mask off the bridge area, and start again, if you feel comfortable locating the bridge position at this point (maybe you have already done so). If not, locate it and use a couple of pins through the saddle slot as markers so you can put it right back in place when its time to glue it on. Either way you go is fine, but you will have all those layers of finish to remove if you keep going.


Jan 16, 10 | 6:55 pm

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
that's what i ended up doing today, also did the locating pins. thanks for the reminder - there's so many things to overlook at this point in the game!

on another note - the Tru Oil sure takes longer to dry on the rosewood than on the spruce or Mahogany.

Jan 17, 10 | 4:57 pm

Total Topics: 15
Total Posts: 57
If you put a coat of shellac over the rosewood first, then Tru-Oil will dry in a couple of hours. I make a lot of banjo rims using oily woods like cocobolo and granadillo (in the rosewood family). It's the oil in the wood that causes Tru-Oil to be slow drying.

Feb 08, 10 | 3:19 am

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
thanks for the tip - nice rim.

Feb 08, 10 | 4:14 am

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