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My second
Author
Post
John S.

Total Topics: 15
Total Posts: 94
After last week's discussion of inlaying on Ken C's thread I thought I'd post a couple of pix of how I applied what I learned. This is a parlor from LMI, which I'm calling "Bling Baby."





It's EIR b&s, bound with koa. The rosette ring is koa as well. The pearl in the rosette and edge purfling is zipflex-- a really great product. The headplate and fret marker inlays are from Andy Depaule. The top is bear claw Sitka (it has a wash of Seal Coat for smudge protection). The bridge, which is a Martin-style that I reworked, is stuck on with double stick tape to give a frame of reference for the body size. I need to finish the fretboard and do some carving on the neck, then I'm planning on trying EM Tech 6000 as the finish. That should be an adventure.

Like so many (most?) folks on this forum, I'm already thinking about the next one!

John

Nov 30, 09 | 7:55 am
RayRay

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
WOWOW! Nice work...I love the combinations of wood, molding and trim...I can't wait to see it finished.
John, what is the bracing on that one? ...is LMI's Parlor what one would call a "Size 5" Terz? It's hard to get the feel of the actual size..sorry for so many questions...it's beautiful!

Ray

Nov 30, 09 | 9:33 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Whoa! Beautiful! I better read that thread again!

Nov 30, 09 | 3:42 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Oh man! That is really nice.
It looks like you have done an excellent job on the inlay.
Congrats!

Kevin

Dec 01, 09 | 1:23 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Beautiful job, can't wait to see it finished!

Dec 01, 09 | 4:55 am
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
Looking very nice, John! From what I can see, your inlays turned out well. I like the headstock inlay ;) Did the inlaying going easier or harder than you thought? I don't recall, what did you use to route the cavities?

I am currently spraying EM6000 on my mad rose OM. I put coats 7, 8, and 9 on this evening. I am not putting any more on the top, but plan on shooting another three on the sides, back, and neck. Hopefully I can get to those tomorrow evening. I think you'll like the EM6000.

Ken


Dec 02, 09 | 6:30 pm
John S.

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 94
Thanks for the nice comments. I use a Dremel with the Stew Mac router base for inlaying, which works pretty well for me. In the past I have scribed around the shell with a needle, then used chalk to visualize the outline. This time I tried using a fine pencil (0.5mm was the finest I could find) and liked that a lot better. I glued the pieces in with a shallow level of medium CA, then filled the gaps with black epoxy. It was easier to line up all the pieces without dealing with epoxy squeeze out.

I pore filled with Z-poxy on my first and liked it a lot, so I will use that again. From what I've seen/read, the EM6000 is a nice product. What temperature range will it tolerate (it's starting to get cold here)?

John

Dec 03, 09 | 5:34 am
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
John,

I shot EM6000 last spring when the temperature was in the mid sixties. I had a very hard time getting it to lay flat off the gun. I would occasionally get small dimples or fisheyes in the finish. I never really got rid of them. I simply sprayed a few more coats then sanded back to level. I did reduce the frequency of the dimples by warming my garage to 70 degrees and using some of Target's retarder. I was very careful how I handled the guitar and what sandpaper I used, so I was pretty certain the problem was either the temperature or the some contamination in my air supply. This time around, I added an additional disposible filter at the gun (already had an inline moisture trap and filter) and warmed the garage to 70+ degrees before spraying (recently installed a radiant tube heater). No dimples. The finish has flowed on beautifully.

I don't know whether the heat or the extra filter solved my spray issues. Perhaps both contributed, but the disposible filter may have been the greatest contributor. You might be okay if you keep your lacquer, gun, and guitar in the house and warm. Then go to the garage to shoot and take the guitar back in the house to cure. I don't have a lot of experience with waterborne finishes. This is my 4th time using it on a guitar. But the finish does seem sensitive to humidity and temperature.

Sounds like you haven't used EM6000 before. When the setup is working, EM6000 flows on really nicely. Make sure you dial back the liquid at your gun so it isn't too heavy. You want a smooth wet look off the gun, but not so much that the film looks milky. I have found a 4" to 5" spray pattern to be pretty good and then overlap passes by 30 to 50% depending on how much finish you have flowing through the gun.

One other word of caution: Don't spray that first coat heavy! If you do, the grain on your soundboard will raise significantly, and you will be breaking out the coarse sandpaper to re-level. Make that first seal coat a light one, even if that means having a little orange peel. You can then shoot a second seal coat a little heavier after the first one has dried for 45 to 60 minutes. I used a couple of coats of shellac to seal, but you could use some thinned EM6000 as well.

If you go with EM6000, I am happy to share more of my setup and approach.

Ken



Dec 03, 09 | 7:50 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
You should raise the grain with a light mist of water. Let it dry 20 minutes, and sand it down....repeat until it no longer raises (2 maybe 3 times). Then, when you spray, it goes on smoother.

Dec 04, 09 | 1:50 pm



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