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Water Based Pore Filler problem
Author
Post
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
I hope I'm not in too deep here. This is the first time I've filled the pores while finishing. I got the Behlen's Water Based "Neutral" pore filler. I assumed that when it dried and you put on the next coat of shellac (I'm french polishing and didn't feel like using pumice as a pore filler), but it obviously stayed white.

My question is do I need to sand past the filled pores and start over from the beginning or will the pore filler take a stain when it's already filled the pores?

I was not planning on staining it but if I can get by with it and just stain over the filler I will go ahead and do that and move on.

Thanks for the advice.

Oct 11, 09 | 6:14 pm
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Boy I got lucky. Just so you guys know. This can be fixed. I had some trans tint and mixed it to a rich brown and it worked.

I tried a little on the spot where my neck was going to sit on, where it wouldn't show and it worked. Not what I originally planned but it worked. It can be stained. Whew that was close. So I guess I'll move on to the next step.

A mistake is only what you can't fix.....right.

Oct 12, 09 | 8:51 pm
Gary Palmer of Palmer's Stringed Instruments

Total Topics: 0
Total Posts: 65
A mistake is only something you can't fix or if someone else spots your deliberate error. ;-)

Oct 19, 09 | 1:00 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
I found water based filler a pain. I use Behlen's pore o paq. I use the natural but stain it to match what I am filling as you see the white specs stand out like a neon sign.
I will mix about 3 table spoons at a time , then add 2 drops of naphtha for every tabelspoon to aid flash off. I only work a side or back at a time. Once the texture goes from wet to matt you can rub it into the wood.
Another option but not on Mahogany or Walnut is CA filling. I have been playing with this a while and I think I have my process nailed. I use thin CA first and just dribble an area and wipe it in with nitrile gloves let cure then sand down. I use a med CA for the 2nd coat , then sand again and go to finish. I seal the top first but not with CA , here I use vinyl sealer .
I have tried sealing and going straight to lacquer . In both cases it worked well and I got a smooth finish surface with less material. I do not use CA on the spruce.
Mistakes are opportunities for design change. As long as you learn something , it is an educational experience.

John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repaircenter

Oct 20, 09 | 3:36 am
wingman399

Total Topics: 11
Total Posts: 30
Definitely an educational experience. I will definitely be going with "clear" something next time. Maybe Zpoxy. Seems like that one is pretty popular. I will probably outsource my finishing once I build my first great one. I'm only on number 2(which is a LOT better than number 1), so I'm trying my hand at finishing and more things because I don't mind screwing up a little on these. I want the good experience and to learn some of the hard lessons now. That CA method doesn't sound too bad either. Seems like it would take no time at all really. Thanks John

Oct 20, 09 | 6:19 am
Hugh

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 309
John, before you do the CA fill, you seal with vinyl sealer, is that right?
Why do you figure mahogany doesn't work with CA filler? I've noticed the same thing.
Have you done a video on this? Yours are so thorough.

Oct 20, 09 | 6:33 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
No I do not seal before CA . I do not use CA on tops . The softer woods tend to glaze from the CA and leaves a footprint. I may have to do a video on this subject as it is getting alot of attention . I have done the CA sealed and not sealed and I can't say that I saw any difference , one way from the other.
thanks

John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repaircenter

Oct 20, 09 | 8:32 am
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
I have used CA to fill pores on curly eucalpytus and curly koa bindings. I typically apply a seal coat before pore filling, then I'll first use CA on the bindings to keep the tinted filler out of those pores. Once the bindings are done, I use Behlen's water based filler to fill pores in the rims, back, and neck.

Ken

Oct 20, 09 | 9:23 am



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