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Titebond II Fluorescent source?

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
I know LMI is the glue of choice by most here...but dang it..I don't mind paying $7.95 got the glue...but $8.95 for shipping is hard to's been said that LMI is a re-pack of titebond II white...does anyone use it and what's your source..everybody looks at me like I fell out of a tall tree when I ask for it..Thanks!

Jun 13, 09 | 6:49 pm
Mike R.

Total Topics: 2
Total Posts: 97
I spent a few weeks with a professional recently, and he uses Titebond II. His name is Dave Nichol's of Custom Pearl Inlay. He builds some very, very nice instruments and has had no problems with that glue. I'm sure that is what LMII is packaging in their bottles. Don't waste your money. Home Depot carry's it. Buy local every chance you get. "Shipping and Handling" charges is a racket.

Jun 14, 09 | 10:14 am

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 295
Titebond is the glue of choice for many builders. It's not the same as what LMI sells. LMI's glue is a white AR which dries clear. Titebond is a yellow glue and does not dry as clear. I like the LMI a little better because when dry it chips off easier. It also has more tack and seems to slide less when joining parts. All that said, it's not worth the 8.95 extra for shipping. I only order it when I order other parts or materials. When I don't have it, I use Titebond II.


Jun 14, 09 | 12:50 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
I'm afrais some of the info above is not quite correct. For example, LMI's white glue is a Polyvinyl formulation, probably PVA; it says so right on the bottle's label.

You can find this information on Titebond glues in the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) sheets for Titebond glues:
Here's a link for all the Franklin (Titebond) MSDS Sheets. These are required EPA docs.
That is a link we all should keep in our bookmarks.

Any question you ahve about a specific glue, just google the glue name and "MSDS" and you'll get the straight scoop.

Original Titebond (yellow glue with red labeling on the plastic bottle) is Aliphatic Resin; it is the only AR glue that Titebond makes.
Titebond II, Titebond Mold a& Trim, and Titebond III are all (PVA) Polyvinyl Acetate glue -- same generic class as LMI White.
LMI White is a PVA -- says so right on the bottle. (It might be or might not be Titebond's formulation. Nobody who really knows is talking.)

Don't go by what you hear from other builders about what type of glue is being used; check the sources of information availabe on the 'net, etc.


Jun 14, 09 | 3:15 pm

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
Thanks everyone!


Jun 15, 09 | 3:31 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
LMII glue is not titebond -- because we (KMG) need to have MSDS sheets on hand, a comparison of products reveals that the two products do not match. It appears that the LMII product is a re-pack of material produced by "Forbo" -- a similar material from Forbo (reference is on the sheets) is used for joining wood and laminate flooring sections.

I have tried the advanced Titebond products on a limited basis and found no advantage --- the down side is they seem not to hardend as completely as regular tightbond. We also use the flourescent -- it is the same as regular with the light senitive additive. The regular TB adhesive has "never" caused any problems, creep, failure, or coating issues --- so after all these yars there really has not been a reason to change. It works for me.


Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Jun 15, 09 | 6:01 am

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 76
Now I am a bit confused here. I was under the impression that Titebond was better than Titebond II for guitar building because it was a glue that not only held well but could be steamed off if necessary and that Titebond II held well but was difficult to steam. Is that not true? Are a lot of people using Titebond II for building guitars these days?

Jun 15, 09 | 8:24 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
I believe that the "Original" Titebond is the glue of choice for instrument makers around the world --- that's a claim that "Franklin" makes as well in their advertising lit. I see that there now is a Titebond II version of the Fluorescent.


Jun 15, 09 | 10:34 am

Total Topics: 0
Total Posts: 3
What is fluorescent glue, and why would you want to use it?

Jun 16, 09 | 7:50 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Glue residue that is invisible in normal lighting can be seen under a black light, very useful feature when trying to produce a very high quality gloss finish ---


Jun 16, 09 | 8:14 am

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 76
Just because it is florescent? Why other than that would it be a good choice for guitar making. Does it hold well? does it steam off if necessary?

Jun 16, 09 | 8:03 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Stuart -- it's Titebond "Original" with a refelctive additive. Bob Taylor thinks its pretty good, last I checked, its what they used in their factory. As stated above Franklin calls "Original Titebond" the number one choice for musical instruments around the world. Since I know so many pros that use "orignal" my mini survey would indicate that is true - of course I have no way to know for sure.


Jun 17, 09 | 3:21 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
I agree that tite bond original is a fine glue for guitars. There have been some acoustic engineering studies that show that HHG may be better but it hasn't deterred me to use it on a regular basis. Martin also uses Tite Bond Original.
In all cases , the best result will be by having a good gluing technique. If there is one thing that is most detrimental , is is not having a perfect joint match. I am sure Ken and I agree on this. As a builder and teacher , this is very critical. If your joint is not perfect , don't glue it. Good enough isn't good enough.
Building guitars looks hard but it is harder than it looks
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
CF Martin Aurthorized Repair Center

Jun 17, 09 | 3:32 am

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