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Homemade electric side bending iron.
Author
Post
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 984
Here is a picture of the parts (minus some plywood and bolts) for the side bending iron I'm going to build. I'm pretty excited about it. I found the idea at http://soundsalon.com/2007/02/05/make-a-hot-pipe-bending-iron/
I was planning on using a propane torch inside the pipe, but this will be much safer, and the heat can be controlled easier. It should get plenty hot!
I'll put a picture up of the finished project when it is done.
Cost is around $35 for the parts less the plywood for a base. (which I already have).


Kevin

Mar 02, 09 | 9:07 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Well, don't know what I did wrong. Lets try it again.

Mar 02, 09 | 9:09 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Third time is a charm. I see the problem.

Mar 02, 09 | 9:14 pm
barryb

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 75
How you gonna fit that heating element into the pipe?

Mar 03, 09 | 3:55 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Hey Barry,
Well it is suppose to bend/compress down to fit inside. I can tell you I won't be doing this with my hands. I will have to carefully squeeze it in the vise with some soft jaws. I also have a 3 1/2" aluminum pipe that I may use instead of the 2" steel pipe. I checked and I can do a dred and an OM on the larger pipe. I don't plan on any cutaways, so I might go with the aluminum. No rust, and, I won't have to squeeze the element down so much. I'll have to get bigger supports for the pipe though. I was going to clean up the steel pipe and cold blue the outside so I won't have a rust issue. Still thinking through the whole thing.

Kevin

Mar 03, 09 | 8:12 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Kevin -- be careful that you don't kink the pipe of the charcoal lighter when you bend it. That could cause a big electrical problem possibly leading to fire ...

Mar 04, 09 | 4:56 am
llajoy

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 295
Kevin, an alternative to the charcoal lighter maybe the heating element for a water heater. You would have to do some wiring and make sure you get one for the correct voltage. I read this in a book or magazine somewhere, but never made one. I used the torch until my wife ordered me a blanket from John Hall.

Lance.

Mar 04, 09 | 8:23 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Thanks Bill, I have thought of that risk so I need to be careful. if I mess up this one, it's only $10. I may use my bigger aluminum pipe just so I don't have to bend it so much. Besides, the 3 1/2" aluminum pipe will work fine for the next 4 guitars I am planning to build.

Lance, I read somewhere not to use a water heater element, although I don't know if the person stated "why not".

I'll show a picture when it is built, and let you know how the practice sessions go.

Kevin

Mar 04, 09 | 11:26 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Tonight I decided to use the aluminum pipe I have and see how it would heat up before assembling this bending iron. I cut a 16" length of thick wall (about 1/4") 3 1/2" OD aluminum pipe. Then I squeezed the charcoal lighter heating element down in my vise (with pieces of thick leather over the jaws) so that it would just fit inside the pipe with as much surface contact as possible. Then I clamped the pipe in my vise, plugged it in, and in about 10 minutes it was very hot where water drops dance and sizzle on the surface of the pipe. I had purchased a surface BBQ thermometer at Lowes and laid it on the pipe, however it took for ever to show 200 degrees. I can tell you it was a lot hotter than that, so I don't know if the thermometer is faulty or what. I was pleased with how hot the pipe got, and I think it is going to work really well. So I have some allthread, nuts and washers to make "legs" for the pipe, and I'll hook the charcoal lighter up to the dimmer for controlling the heat, mount it all to a board, and I should be ready to bend sides. I'll put up some pictures as I assemble the bending iron and the finished product.

Kevin

Mar 09, 09 | 9:03 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
A propane torch will make your "side bending" life much more simple. Once you get to know the process the heat is easily adjusted by the length of the flame. And yes aluminum is a good choice.

ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978


Mar 10, 09 | 9:44 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Hey Ken,
Thanks for your input. I have the torch handy. I use a torch for soldering in my knifemaking. I "thought" I could control the heat better with this electrical setup...maybe not, but open flames in the shop make me nervous.
If I need a smaller radius, I'll probably use the torch in the smaller pipe.
Yeah, no rust with the aluminum.

Kevin

Mar 10, 09 | 11:46 am
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Are you going to try a different thermometer? Be nice to find one that reacts quicker.

Mar 16, 09 | 7:03 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Yes, I took the thermometer you see above back to Lowes. I'm going to look for the type that fits on the front of a BBQ hood with a short probe that sticks through. Then I can drill a hole in the pipe and lay it on the pipe with the probe in the hole.
I should get this bending iron assembled this weekend. I'll post a picture.

Kevin

Mar 16, 09 | 8:33 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Kevin,

I thought this might interest you. Info I read in a post on the net:

There are 2 types of BBQ charcoal starters...one has a ceramic coating and is useless in that the elements have to be bent to fit into a 2 inch pipe. This bending will break the ceramic. The non ceramic or metal type are the type to use and are best put into a vice , heated up and then the vice closed which bends the heater elements towards one another making it easy to fit into a 2 inch pipe.

I'm sure it's much easier to bend the element while it's hot.

Another poster claimed he could get his BBQ charcoal starter up to 500 degrees. If true, it should be plenty hot.

BTW, I grew up in Morrilton, AR......right between Jimmy Lyle (who lived in Russelville) and Art Wyman (lived in Plummerville). Many folks claim Wyman taught Lyle how to make knives but I can't say it's true for sure. I've had 3 of Wyman's knives and still own one of the last 5 he sold before he died. Never owned one of Lyle's knives but he was more creative making knives than Wyman so were a little more stylish though not better knives. Ever heard of Ronnie Foster? He makes some nice knives as well and lives just outside of Morrilton. John Fitch lives near there on Wilburton mountain and used to attend my dad's church. I now live in Springdale about 5 miles from AG Russell's shop and not a lot further from Bob Dozier. Funny thing, I've never seen a knife made personally by AG Russell. I've always wondered if he's ever made a knife <smile>.

Apr 02, 09 | 5:06 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Adaboy,
I've never seen the ceramic coated starters! I bent mine cold, but, I decided to use a 3 1/4" pipe so I didn't need to squeeze it down quite so much. I still haven't put this bender together....soon though, very soon. Still haven't found the thermometer either.

Ronnie Foster I don't know. Wyman.......I will look them up. AG Russell was a knife maker, however he probably doesn't make them anymore. Bob Dozier, John Fitch, now there are some big names in the custom handmade business. So you are living in the middle of a bunch of makers. Sounds like you need to own a genuine "Sjostrand". I use to mark mine "Black Oak Blades" up till about 6 years ago, then started just using my name alone.

Kevin

Apr 02, 09 | 9:09 pm
Adaboy

Total Topics: 64
Total Posts: 509
Kevin, Ronie Foster is a master bladesmith. Wyman was one of the original founding members of the Knifemakers Guild (hope I got that name correct). Anyhow, you probably haven't heard of them.

Jimmie Lyle became well known after he made the famous knife used in the Rambo movies (Sylvester Stallone).

I figured you would know Fitch and Dozier. I know Fitch a little (used to go to my dad's church) and now lives on Wye Mountain. I've never met Dozier.....but I like his knives.

Apr 08, 09 | 5:41 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Okay, so I finally got around to building the bending pipe today.
Hooray! It works. Takes about 15 minutes to heat up enough to make water drops dance on the surface. I'll still need to get a thermometer (that works) to set on the pipe so I have some idea how hot it is.
Anyway, here are a couple of pics.
Actually only cost me about $25. When I do some practice bending I'll let you all know how that goes.




Kevin

Apr 11, 09 | 8:14 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
That's great Kevin! Glad it works so well!

Bill

Apr 12, 09 | 5:15 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Looks neat! Does it get up to 300 degrees? Also, a safety thing --- if you did not use silicone coated wiring inside the tube I recommend checking it often. I found out the hard way on one of my early benders -- the insulation peeled/burned off some wiring and electrified all the metal parts ---- it was shocking!! I had also failed to ground all the metal as well -- lesson learned.

Ken

Kenneth Michael guitars est. 1978

Apr 12, 09 | 6:15 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Ken,
I would say it probably does get to 300 degrees, if not a bit more since the water drops boil away instantly.
Thanks for the heads up on the wiring. It is as it came out of the handle of the BBQ lighter. It is all wrapped with electrical tape, albeit not the heat resistant stuff. However, the wires are just barely inside the pipe, and at that dead center, not touching the pipe wall. I will keep a watch on it when I start using it. I'll also replace the switch plate cover to a metal one.
Ready now to practice some bending!!!

Kevin

Apr 12, 09 | 8:00 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
That looks great Kevin! I may actually adapt that to the one I built.....I don't really like it the more I look at it, but yours looks very good! Let me know how it works!

Apr 14, 09 | 7:56 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Okay so tonight I tried this bending pipe out for the first time, and it was my first try at bending a side. I had a side at around .090" of Phillippine mahogany that I got from some guy. I spent 2 hours at it, and finally got it to fit my mold. I did fine until I got the the upper bout (this is a dred mold).
This is not an easy task, but I can see with practice it is very doable, and can go much faster. I didn't soak the wood, just spritzed it with water and used a wet rag on the pipe.
So, it does work. I used it on full heat the whole time and it did not seem to be too hot. Next I have to walnut sides that have no matching back to use for practice. I may try soaking one of them to see how that works. If I am successful with those, I will go at my Palo Escrito sides. Once they are done, I will post a pic of them in the mold.
Wish me luck!!!!!

Kevin

Apr 23, 09 | 9:30 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
ANyone see objections to steel pipe? I can't seem to get aluminum. I am guessing I may have to steel wool and clean it before every use, but it gets hot enough and easily bent an unwetted strip of maple I had sitting around.

Apr 24, 09 | 10:06 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Try Speedy Metals on line store --- Steel pipe can cause stains (sometimes green, depends on mineral content) on light color woods like Maple and Cherry.

Ken

Apr 24, 09 | 12:30 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Ken H,
What size do you want? I have a metal salvage yard right across the street. The piece I got was only $6 and I have a piece left about 12"(I think). If you'll pay the shipping I'll try and get you want you want.

Kevin

Apr 24, 09 | 2:03 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
I already have the thing built with steel pipe. Lemme try it out as it is, I have already bent some small peices quite easily. If it goes to the crapper, I'll give you a call. Thanks for the offer.

Apr 24, 09 | 5:20 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Ahh, so I did it. I bent the sides today. I learned a few things in the process.
First: Gloves were a very good idea. No burns and I was sitll able to tell when the wood was "giving" so it would bend.
Second: I really enjoyed doing it this way. The first side took 2 hours, but the second side took just 45 minutes. With practice and know how I can see doing it maybe in 10 to 15 minutes per side.
Third: It is important to keep the rag very wet producing steam. I let it dry out early on in the bending of the first side, and it almost caught fire! I also had no scorching this way.
Fourth: The 3 1/2" diameter pipe I'm using is too big for the radius of the upper bout. It was fine for the waist and lower bout on the Dred. I had a length of 2 1/2" steel pipe that I heated with a torch to touch up the upper bout bend so it would fit the mold. If I was using the 2 1/2" pipe for the whole bend, it would have gone faster I think.
Fifth: This was alot harder to do than I thought it would be, but a great learning experience. I can see that the more I do it, the easier it will become. Figuring out where to do the bending did not come natural. I thought it would just be logical, and thus simple, but what I found out is bending in one place can change what the rest of the side is going to do.
So I was pretty pleased with the result. The bends are not perfect. I have to use the spreaders to make the sides fit the mold good. I cut the sides to length today too so they are clamped up in the mold with the end blocks until tomorrow when I will glue them in.
So here are a few pics of how it went.

Kevin

All laid out with the sides marked for waist and bouts

First side bent, fits the mold pretty good

Both sides in the mold with spreaders. I actually have gone back and relieved some of the stress on the sides at the neck area so the lay almost flat against the mold.

The sides out of the mold





Apr 25, 09 | 9:50 pm
RayRay

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
Kevin, You can get an instant read infra-red laser thermometer fairly cheap...it's the only way to go..no touchie..no burnie...I got mine at Pep Boy's.. most auto parts have them or here's an on-line source..they are great for a LOT of other things also...from your BBQ to checking hot water in the shower...checking the accracy of the wife's oven...or anything else you wish to know the temp of easily and instantly!

http://www.maxtool.com/index/Digital_Infrared_Non-Contact_Thermometers.asp

Apr 25, 09 | 10:00 pm
RayRay

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
WoW! That looks great! Nice bender..GREAT job!
Ray

Apr 25, 09 | 10:02 pm
DonB

Total Topics: 20
Total Posts: 240
Kevin,
Those sides look beautiful!
If your instruments are as nicely done as your bender and mold
they must come out very nice.


Don

Apr 26, 09 | 4:31 pm
DonB

Total Topics: 20
Total Posts: 240
Ray,
That's a great item! Thank you for the link.

Don

Apr 26, 09 | 4:33 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Hi Ray, thanks for the comments, and thanks for the tip on the thermo....I just might get me one of those.
Don, thanks for checking in. My first guitar came out pretty good. It was an LMI serviced kit. This one is from an unserviced kit, so close to being from scratch. I have a lot to go on it, and a lot to learn. But bending the sides this way was a kick. I will do it again.

Kevin

Apr 26, 09 | 9:51 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Looks good Kevin!

For the budget minded

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96451

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Apr 27, 09 | 5:25 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
I had a nifty little key fob sized digital infra red thermometer, very handy, surprisingly accurate from Harbor Freight, but I failed to read the fine print....only goes to 250 F.

Apr 28, 09 | 4:52 pm
RayRay

Total Topics: 21
Total Posts: 190
I use my infra-red lazer thermometer for multiple things inclluding automotive and equipment requirements.. so accuracy is a factor for me...I haven't had much luck with Harbor Freight on precision items..I would rather spend a few extra bucks and get a little higher quality the first time rather than having to do it again but thats just ME..the one I'm using is plus or minus 2 degrees up to 1000..it was $69 a year ago..
A side benefit is checking and calabrating the Wife's oven for accurate baking..so I got an "Atta Boy" also Hahahaha...

Apr 28, 09 | 5:55 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
resurrecting an old thread here...

Kevin, do you still use this set up? Do you think that the dimmer switch is necessary, if you leave it set to high while bending?

I have a torch/pipe set up, but there were a few times I had a hard time keeping the torch going for one reason or another. For $10 at walmart I think I'll pick up a charcoal lighter and try that route.

Feb 09, 10 | 5:07 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Regarding keeping the propane torch lit --- have the flame just inside the end of the pipe, you have to make sure you are not starving the flame of oxygen, especially if you cap the bending end of the pipe (which I recommend – just stuff a wad of aluminum foil in there). Also the torch needs to be angle so the nozzle end of the tank is higher. Temperature control is fairly easy with a propane torch I use a magnetic “wood burning” stove stack thermometer placed on top of the steel strap that secures the aluminum pipe. I have found that once the pipe is to temperature about 300 degrees --- if the blue tip of the flame is lowered to about ˝” in length the temperature stays constant at 300.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Feb 09, 10 | 5:33 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Ken - Thanks for the tips, I think that I landed on that as the problem (starving the torch of oxygen) and I believe that the all-thread legs I made were too short to keep the nozzle end high enough.

Clearly I'm reworking my pipe setup, and exploring the electric vs torch method in my head. A better way to hold the tank in the correct position relative to the iron, vs. going electric...

Feb 09, 10 | 5:52 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Dviss,
Yes, I just used it to bend cocobolo sides for a dreadnaught. It works great. I don't think I will ever mess around with a bending form/machine. I rather have enjoyed "feeling" and smelling the wood.

So far, I have left the dimmer on high, so you could probably get away without using one. Even when I've bent EIR binding, I left it on high. I do put a very wet (and keep it wet) rag on the pipe while I bend to generate steam....I do this rather than soak the wood.
I think for the money, if you want a bending pipe, you can't go wrong...and no open flame to worry about with all that guitar wood dust laying around.

Kevin

Feb 09, 10 | 6:04 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
I used a wet rag as well. What temps are you reaching on high?

Darren

Feb 09, 10 | 6:12 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Darren,
When I first used the iron, I had one of those surface contact thermo's and it topped out at 280 degrees. I expected a higher temp and thought there was something wrong with it so I returned it to the store. I believe it is hotter than that, since the iron instantly vaporizes the water on contact, but I never used another method to read the temp, so I don't know for sure how hot it is.
At high, it seems to be about perfect. If it was hotter, without the wet rag barrier, it will scorch the wood easily. For the purpose of bending rosewood, it has been in my opinion, the perfect temperature, but then I don't have alot of experience, so take that opinion based on that fact. :>)

Kevin

Feb 09, 10 | 12:13 pm
DonB

Total Topics: 20
Total Posts: 240
Hi Kevin,
A little off topic but I was wondering what method you used to measure and mark the sides for bending? Did you take the measurements off of plans?
Thank you for your time,

Don

Feb 09, 10 | 1:47 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Hey Don,
You know it was really easy. I have made a pattern of the side contour from some cool directions that Ken Cierp has shared with us here on the forum. I don't remember which heading it is under, but if you search you can find it. I had made a paper pattern of the contour and used it on my first build, a kit with pre-bent sides, by taping it to the sides, marking, and cutting to shape. For the next two guitars, I made a template pattern, marked and cut the sides to shape while flat before bending. To mark the exact waist and bout centers I took masking tape to an existing dreadnaught, marked the ends and those center points on the tape, transferred the tape to my template and marked those locations. Now when I use the template, I have a way to mark the waist and bout centers, making it much easier to bend in the right place.
Bingo, it works great. The coutour is near perfect when I start sanding the rims. If you can't find the thread with the directions for the pattern, ask Ken Cierp for it.

Kevin

Feb 09, 10 | 3:46 pm
DonB

Total Topics: 20
Total Posts: 240
Kevin,
Thank you for the very clear explanation!
For some reason I couldn't wrap my head around it ?:>(
It really seems easy after all.
Thanks again for the great pics of your bender.

Don

Feb 10, 10 | 10:31 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Hey Kevin, I hope to be bending sides this weekend with this setup. Mine hit 300 in about 10 minutes, in a 2.5" pipe. No dimmer. Was wondering if you (or anyone else bending by hand) use slats. I'm bending a koa set, and was planning to make a slat/paper/wood/paper/slat sandwich. But it seems like a lot to manage at once - should I tape everything together? Wondering how you guys handle that...


thanks, Darren.

Mar 06, 10 | 5:10 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
You don't need the bottom slat and you don't need the paper -- spritz the wood with spray bottle as you go. WORK VERY SLOWLY when using on a pipe bender.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Mar 06, 10 | 5:30 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Aluminum slats won't discolor the koa?

Are bottom slats just for bending in a form?

thanks Ken,

Darren

Mar 06, 10 | 5:56 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Aluminum slats won't discolor the koa?

I really don't know the answer, Koa is not one of our regular materials. I think not? You should alway do a test piece with a new material and set up.

Are bottom slats just for bending in a form?

The pipe itself acts as the back up, what you are trying to avoid is having a section of the wood across the width dry out unevenly. That causes the wood to bend at a different rates because cupping occurs. The top slat allows you to push the material tightly against the pipe keeping the applied heat and moisture consistant.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978







Mar 06, 10 | 6:12 am
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Hey Darren,
I don't have alot of experience, but I have bent two sets of sides. The first was Palo Escrito, a rosewood. I used no back up plate. I just kept the rag on the pipe pretty wet making lots of steam. This seemed to work fine, and I got no scorching, and no cupping. Keeping pressure against the pipe as you bend should keep any cupping from occuring. If you want you can spritz the top of the side you are bending over the area you are bending to keep it moist on the upside. I found that helped at times. The second set was the Cocobolo I'm working on now. I did it the same way, and they came out great. Perhaps a little harder to bend because the wood is more dense than the Palo Escrito.
You do have to go slow. FEEL the wood. Feel what it is doing. After about 3 or 4 minutes working it on the pipe with very little pressure you will feel the wood start to give and become elastic. Don't force it, but apply more pressure and it will succumb. If you over bend, you can always, and easily take some of the bend back out.
Have fun! I really have enjoyed bending this way.
Put up a picture of your bending pipe for us to see, and the results of your bending too!

Kevin

Mar 06, 10 | 6:46 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Kevin
I bent my indian rosewood sides with a wet rag and no backing slat, and I sure know that you have to go slow!

Ken, thanks for the clarification on the slats. I sure don't want to over complicate things.

Darren.

Mar 06, 10 | 7:47 am
John B

Total Topics: 15
Total Posts: 76
Don,
In case you didn't find it. Here is the side contour thread where Ken Cierp gives a good explanation of the contour pattern.. He explains clearly and shows the pattern for a Dread and then gives an explanation of how to make an OM pattern. I use it and it works great! There are also other methods in the thread including the one Bill Cory uses.

http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threads.php?id=2476_0_6_0_C

John

Mar 09, 10 | 7:02 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Nice thread on side templates there John... better than my attempt.

Here's a shot of my bender. Can you tell where the torch was aimed at? :) Haven't bent on it yet, but wanted to share a pic. Not as pretty as Ken's but other than the starter, all the parts were on hand.


Mar 10, 10 | 11:22 am
DonB

Total Topics: 20
Total Posts: 240
John B,
Thank you for that link. Very much appreciated.

Don

Mar 10, 10 | 1:56 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Darren,
That looks like it should work. Is it stable with just the two legs?
I don't think you will miss the dimmer/temp control. I want to make another one with a 2 1/2" pipe. I'll do that one like you did without the dimmer.

Kevin

Mar 10, 10 | 3:25 pm
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
Kevin,
yes, it was stable enough for bending my first set with the torch. It can twist a little if you place some good sideways pressure on the end. But as I understand it, you should wait for the wood to relax before attempting bending, and at that point you can't be forcing anything anyways. That being said, I like your legs much better, but don't tell my wife (lol...)

Mar 11, 10 | 4:20 am
dviss

Total Topics: 18
Total Posts: 165
just an update - Kevin you might want to run a dimmer if you make a second bender - After about 25-30 minutes of use the other night the temp was easily over 400. Now I don't know about you but I won't be bending a side in under 25 minutes so I'm going to get the dimmer parts you've shown above. This thing gets smoking HOT!

Mar 15, 10 | 1:11 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
Dave,
I spent on average about 45 minutes per side on the last two guitars. It should go faster, but I don't want to make a mess, so I go slow. Better than having broken wood!! Yes, the dimmer setup is cheap, and good for control.

Kevin

Mar 15, 10 | 3:55 pm



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