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wet sanding
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dcbaisden

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 58
Hi, Its been awhile since i was on the forum and posted. My old computer crashed and I lost most of my build info. I still have the hard drive and will try to get all the pictures off some time. the company I work for shut down the plant and I had to move. been a long year.
My question is after a number of coats of nitro laquer let it dry for 20 to 30 days .. what method would you use for the final finish. my instructions say to wet sand with 800 work up to 1000.
do you soak your paper in water for a while?
what do I look for when sanding as a place not to exceed?
Thanks Dave


Oct 08, 08 | 4:05 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
hi Dave -- Most of the guys I've read do recommend wet sanding. I do mine with about five to ten drops of Basic H (a Shaklee product) or other liquid soap in a pint of water -- or straight parrafin oil from Behlens.

I have sanded too far in the past and then had to add more finish. The only way I've gotten around that is to just sand a lot less. Using some papers, it seems they cut more aggressively when used wet than dry. Maybe that's my imagination, but when I sand dry to don't sand through; when I've sanded wet, it has happened.

I think it's an experience thing, like so much of this.

Bill

Oct 08, 08 | 5:56 am
jack226

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 60
Dave, I use reduced oder mineral spirits for wet sanding. I had blushing issues when I used water and murphy soap. When finishing, I start with wet sandpaper and work from 800 to 2000 grit and then switch to micro mesh up to 12000 grit. I've used this ever since I buffed through my finish on my first kit. A little extra work, but you can't beat the micro mesh finish.

Jack

Oct 08, 08 | 1:43 pm
dcbaisden

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 58
Thanks, I have free cut paper up to 2000 and a #2 medium and a #3 fine polishing compound from stew mac . What do you use to reduce the mineral spirits?

Oct 08, 08 | 2:55 pm
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
If the sandpaper doesn't load up, I prefer to sand with it dry. The paper doesn't cut as easily when it is dry and I can better see how much finish I am removing.

Ken

Oct 09, 08 | 5:24 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Yes, this is a definite consideration and echoes what I was saying above. When you are wet sanding, it is ncessary to go really easy and be cautious until you've gained enough experience.

Also, be sure to wipe the top dry after each wet-sanding with each grit, then re-wet and sand again with the next grit; the wetting agent will hold grit from the previous sanding(s). That's probably obvious, but worth stating.

Oct 09, 08 | 6:20 am
dcbaisden

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 58
thanks, after about a year the end appears to be in sight.
Once I get it sanded and filled , looks like a couple places will need drop filled
I should be able to glue on the neck.
Would you drop fill befor sanding? seem to make better sense.
Dave

Oct 09, 08 | 8:18 am
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
Dave,

I would certainly drop fill first. Every time you sand and level, you are removing finish. The more finish you remove, the more you run a risk of sanding too far. Once you drop fill, use a sanding bar or contoured block to get the area leveled. Don't use you hand or you won't get the area perfectly leveled. Also be extremely careful sanding around the edges. Treat them as if they only had one coat. One slip with some sandpaper along an edge and you quickly wipe out a half dozen coats of finish.

Ken

Oct 09, 08 | 9:49 am
dcbaisden

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 58
thanks Ken, Its the comments that help me get it right
Dave

Oct 09, 08 | 10:19 am
John S.

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 94
If/when you sand through, is it necessary to apply multiple coats to the entire back (or sides, or top) or just to the area that needs refinishing?

John

Nov 01, 08 | 5:07 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
That depends a lot on what kind of finish you have used and how far through you've sanded. I've always refinished the whole back or side or top, though that might not have been necessary.

Nov 02, 08 | 5:06 am



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