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Deprecated: mysql_escape_string(): This function is deprecated; use mysql_real_escape_string() instead. in /home/bluescreek/domains/kitguitars/pm/db/db.mysql.php on line 236

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2 newb questions
Author
Post
jeremy3220

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 242
I'm about to glue my end blocks in my LMI serviced dread. I know what to do with the top of the end blocks but how much extra should I leave on the back side for radiusing?

My main question/issue: I'm going to have to take the body out of the mold to draw the contour for the sides(per Bill's LMI method) and mybe some other stuff. The problem is my mold was made with two layers of 3/4" ply with two 3/4" spacers at each end, I had issues squaring it up once the the spacers were added- accomodations were made. Long story short, I can take it apart but I don't believe I can put it back together with the guitar in it and get it square again. My question is will I be able to remove the sides and put them back in safely ?

May 08, 08 | 7:53 am
Ted

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 158
Jeremy - I shudder when I remember my time with the LMI blocks. I cut the end block too short, following the DVD for the OM (I was making a dread) and then I discovered I was supposed to trim the neck block before installation…

On my LMI build, I botched up my attempt at a form, working on some sort of hybrid system, trying to keep costs down. Fear not, I managed to get around the issue and so will you.

I used internal rods to push and clamps to pull the end blocks, forcing them to the right place. When gluing the back on I made sure that the distance between the blocks was correct, flipping it over I again made sure it was exactly the right length.

Take a look at the photos from December 06 and January 07 on my blog and you’ll see the images of my body balancing on a pot plant container. I think you’ll find that your edges with go back into the mold easier but this method worked well for me and I kept the blocks square…. ish

May 08, 08 | 10:46 pm
jeremy3220

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 242
My problem actually isn't getting the guitar aligned in the mold, it's getting the mold aligned with itself. I reemed out the bolts that hold it togther, so when you loosen those bolts everything is going to move around. It was hard enough to get to match the plans with no guitar in it, it will be impossible with a guitar in it.
What I'm wondering is if I'll be able to put the guitar back in without cracking the sides, because I can't take the mold apart.

May 09, 08 | 1:58 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Jeremy-- I'm sure you've considered this, but on the outside chance that you haven't -- is there any way you can do it withthe rim still in the mold? Maybe measuring and marking the inside of the rim instead of the outside....?

The blocks at the rear should be about 1/32 to 1/16 proud of the rim. Four index cards (.008 thick each) under the rim will raise it .032", or just over 1/32.

Bill

May 09, 08 | 4:44 am
jeremy3220

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 242
Bill, I think that may be the safest way to go. It might be more of a hassle but it should work.
Thanks

May 09, 08 | 9:37 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Jeremy -- Hope so -- I've cut ends and sides while bodies were in outside molds and with them on inside molds (like that LMI you referenced), and it has worked both ways. Good luck with it --
Bill

May 10, 08 | 6:39 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Jeremy:

Dumb question, but before you do any gluing, can you run your mold through a table saw and put a hinge on it? It sounds like that might simplify a lot of things for you.

May 10, 08 | 9:33 pm
jeremy3220

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 242
Yeh Ken I could do that but isn't a table saw blade about an 1/8" thick? I would lose that much width at whatever end I put the hinge on. I think I'm just going to work around taking it out till the end.

May 11, 08 | 5:36 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
When you mount the two parts to the hinge, leave the 1/8" gap at the hinge side, and glue a 1/8" thick peice of cork at the closing end where you should have a clamp or clasp of some sort. Losing 1/8" overall in a guitar mold is nothing anyway. Chances are, you can see that much variation in production guitars, or at least guitars that are bent on a pipe rather than a form.

May 11, 08 | 7:34 pm
jeremy3220

Total Topics: 29
Total Posts: 242
Thanks Ken.

1/8! and I was freaking out about 1/16 on my mold... which I fixed with 1/8" cork and some sanding:) I still think I will try to mark and contour the back side of the sides with the sides in the mold and go with the hinge idea only if I need it... no sense putting any more effort, time or money into that mold, I'll probably trash it when I'm done.

May 11, 08 | 7:54 pm



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