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Tru-oil Coverage
Author
Post
moocatdog

Total Topics: 35
Total Posts: 305
My order of Tru-oil has arrived, but the bottle seems quite small. I'm seeking guidance from those who've gone before me. Is one 3 oz. bottle enough to finish an entire guitar?

Thanks,
George :-)

Jan 08, 08 | 10:34 am
jhowell

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 676
George--

As with most things, "It will depend." I can do about three necks with a small bottle and I use a lot of coats, somewheres between 12 and 16 usually. With a 000 and doing the back, sides, top and neck, I'd guess that you may need another bottle. We have a Cabela's about 40 minutes from here and that is where I usually go for the stuff. If you find you're running low, just order another bottle. A little delay in the completion of the Tru-Oil finish will not hurt anything.

--Jim

Jan 08, 08 | 2:36 pm
moocatdog

Total Topics: 35
Total Posts: 302
Jim,
Thanks for the info. As usual, I should have looked a little harder for a local supplier before ordering online. I just discovered that Woodcraft sells 8 oz. bottles for $11.00. I bought 3 oz. for $7.75, plus shipping. Dang! Well, if I need more, now I know were to get it.
Thanks again,
George :-)

Jan 08, 08 | 5:59 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Most gun stores and many hunting/outdoor sports equipment stores that sell rifles/guns will sell tru-oil as well. Are there any stores such as these near you? Might save the wait.

Jan 09, 08 | 6:33 am
moocatdog

Total Topics: 35
Total Posts: 302
Ken,
Thanks. A new Cabelas opened an hour of so from me and there are other such outfitters around as well. There's also a Woodcraft about a half hour away, which is why I feel stupid for not checking there first. Lot's of options nearby, this was simply impatience on my part.

I'm getting pretty close to the finishing stage. I drilled, glued and sanded the side dots in my fingerboard last night. Now I just need to set aside some time later this week to finesse the dry fit of my dovetail (gulp) and I'll be ready. Pretty exciting!

Thanks again,
George :-)

Jan 09, 08 | 10:22 am
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
I can't say about a whole guitar, but I was able to do two necks with 14 coats and still had some left over, probably enough for a third neck. I would guess you would probably be pretty close for a complete guitar. I picked mine up at Walmart in the hunting section for less than half of what the suppliers are charging and there is no shipping! I really like the stuff and will definately use it again on my necks. It really makes the wood 'pop'.

[url=www.davidsguitar.blogspot.com] My Blog [/url}

Jan 09, 08 | 12:58 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
I absolutely agree that Tru-Oil brings out the beauty of the wood in a striking way. I'm planning to use it on my kauri small jumbo scratch project.


Jan 09, 08 | 1:56 pm
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
Scratch project......... Scratch project??? Did I read this correctly? Bill, have we turned you over to the "dark side"? haha

Jan 09, 08 | 2:04 pm
kevinc

Total Topics: 9
Total Posts: 13
FYI, Tru-Oil can be found at the local Wal Mart sporting goods dept. I just noticed it there today and picked up a 3oz. bottle for about 4 bucks. I've been considering this as a finish on my first guitar so I thought I'd try it out on some mahogany scrap I've got. I put on a couple of coats today and I have to say it looks like it will be a great finish. The scrap I used didn't have the pores filled. Just on raw wood. It looks like it would take quite a bit of oil to fill the pores on mahogany without some kind of sealer/filler. Could I use an epoxy filler and then the True Oil?

Jan 09, 08 | 3:16 pm
jhowell

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 676
Kevin--

Tru-Oil works well over Zpoxy pore filler. Use a shellac seal padded on with cloth or blue paper shop towel between the two.

--Jim

Jan 09, 08 | 3:34 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Tru-oil has a pore filler that is not much different. I mixed a bunch of the glass dust that came with the System 3 pore filler with the tru-oil pore filler, made more of a "butter" with it, and it worked pretty well. Just a thought. you could always just order the silica from LMI, a quart of that stuff will last through a good number of guitars.

Jan 09, 08 | 8:26 pm
moocatdog

Total Topics: 35
Total Posts: 302
I'm unsure about how to approach padding on shellac. I'd really appreciate it if you, Jim, (or anyone else) would describe the process.
Thanks,
Moo :-)

Jan 09, 08 | 10:04 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
:-|) -- Hey David -- Yup, been working in secret on it for awhile now... it's a 13-fret small jumbo of kauri and Eye-talian spruce ... Working on it slowly since over a year ago.

Funny thing is, I designed the shape of the body two years ago (it's in my book) and came up with a shape I liked -- then Taylor came out with the new Grand Symphony shape -- and it was identical to what I came up with. ... Now, if mine can sound like theirs, I'll be real happy ...

Jan 10, 08 | 5:46 am
moocatdog

Total Topics: 35
Total Posts: 302
I'm kind of hijacking my own thread here, but I found an interesting site that describes various methods and materials needed to apply shellac.

Anyone interested can follow this link: Applying shellac

Geogre :-)

Jan 10, 08 | 11:51 am
jhowell

Total Topics: 37
Total Posts: 676
George--

The link is an interesting read -- a lot can be learned from the fine furniture makers. I pad it on much as in the link. I make my pads with 4" square pieces of old, well laundered linen table cloth that I picked up on e-Bay -- $5 for a lifetime supply. I use wool for the interior as well; old boot socks run and hide from me :). I end up with a pad that has the surface area of a quarter, more or less after I've twisted it up. I store them in a little Tupperware container that has an airtight sealed lid. I put 4 or 5 drops of alcohol in the container every month or so to keep them from hardening. The furniture guys have to cover much more area for their pieces, therefore using larger pads. I use a 2# cut to pad and for general sealing and then go to a 1# cut when I start the polishing schedule. The more I use shellac the more I like it. Don't need no stinkin' (literally) spray guns!

--Jim

Jan 10, 08 | 4:32 pm



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