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Yet another binding router jig
Author
Post
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 569
Today I decided to make a jig for my new Ridgid laminate trimmer for binding and perfling routing. I have been using my router table and it works fine, but I end up with some work getting the spots where the back angle causes the channel to get too thin ready for the glue up. It hasn't really been a problem but I decided to give the laminate trimmer method a shot as I have never done it that way before. I got the Ridgid trimmer mainly because it has a nice edge roller guide that none of the other trimmers have. This guide is very solid and easily adjustable. I made a new Lexan base plate and a angled piece that rides along the back or top but it only makes contact with about 3/8" of the surface so the trimmer can remain level with the sides. I am anxious to give it a try. Hopefully I will have my current build ready in a few weeks so I can try it out.



My Blog

Jan 06, 08 | 12:32 pm
BlaineC

Total Topics: 10
Total Posts: 51
Wow, David, that looks great. Let us know how it tuns out.

Jan 06, 08 | 12:55 pm
Herman

Total Topics: 38
Total Posts: 480
Yes david, that is a really cool tool. If it works half as good as it looks, you'll be fine.

Jan 07, 08 | 9:08 am
Hugh

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 309
That's a good looking item. I don't see the angled piece that rides along the top or back, is it in the picture?

Jan 07, 08 | 3:56 pm
chrisdb

Total Topics: 9
Total Posts: 50
nice... i like the roller bearing. most of the jigs i see have a longer extension in the vertical plane to track the 'plumb' face of the guitar side. is this jig staying straight for you?

Jan 07, 08 | 4:52 pm
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
The angled piece is just to the right of the router bit. It is clear lexan so it is kind of hard to see. The roller bearing is adjustable up and down as well as in and out. I have it up in the picture but it can go down so it is 3" below the router plate which should make it nice and steady. I haven't tried it on a guitar yet. I need to give it a try on some scrap to see how it works. It seems like it should work fine.

My Blog

Jan 07, 08 | 5:09 pm
Goobie

Total Topics: 13
Total Posts: 132
Hi David,
I was just given that very same router as a Christmas gift. The roller bearing guide is really nice isn't it!?! I think this is without a doubt the nicest trimmer on the market for use in routing a binding channel. I ended up making a jig like the one shown in the link below and mounting it in that. I've yet to try this new jig, But I have to admit, If it didn't already have that jig built when I got the router, I probably would have done something similar to your design. The edge guide is so stable and precise it begs to be used! :)

Link: http://pweb.jps.net/~kmatsu/htmlpages/bindrtrjig.html

Cheers!
Chad

Jan 07, 08 | 6:59 pm
kevinc

Total Topics: 9
Total Posts: 13
I've been considering a laminate trimmer and I like the Rigid. Does the edge roller guide come with the trimmer or is it an add-on?
Thanks,Kevin

Jan 08, 08 | 5:28 am
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
The roller guide comes with it. In my humble opinion, the Ridgid trimmer is the best trimmer on the market for this specific application simply because it comes with this guide. It is very solidly built and totally adjustable. It is almost like Ridgid knew what guitar builders needed and built the trimmer accessory specifically for our needs. Now if they would make the base plate for it..... haha.

[www.davidsguitar.blogspot.com] My Blog [/url]

Jan 08, 08 | 5:34 am
jplee3

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 79
Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread! I picked one of these trimmers up because I found a fairly decent price on a refurb model off Ebay ($70~). So now I just need to figure out how to make the base plate. For those of you who use this trimmer, pics/templates/instructions are more than welcome!!!


Feb 02, 09 | 10:45 am
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Hi David, I like the look of what you are showing, but can't help thinking that with only virtually two points of contact, the router is going to rock a bit, or potentially be unsteady. I think, with one more added element, what you have will work fine. The beauty of Bill Cory's router guide is that the element that squares you to the side is in contact with a large portion of the depth of the side, which gives you plenty of surface to steady against, since the part contact the top is so small. I think if you got a peice of angled aluminum, put a slot in it to mount it to the same adjustment knob under the bearing slide, and then added either another peice of wood or plastic as a bearing surface like Bill's guide, one that sat flush with the side of the guitar like the bearing does, it will be steadier. I wonder if it would be possible to replace the shaft of the bearing with a much longer one, and put a delrin roller underneath, hanging down like 2" from the existing, and then put them on the same shaft. Just hinking out loud. I may be completely over thinking this, so let us know how this works out for you!

Feb 02, 09 | 11:03 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
I really believe there will be issues with this set up when it come to routing a 12', 15' or 20' contoured back.

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/understandingbindingchannels.html

Tracing the narrow perimeter edge and keeping the bit vertical require a set up that takes the variable geometry into account -- the back of a guitar is what it is, and it is not a kitchen counter top.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Feb 02, 09 | 11:24 am
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
If you look closely you will see a small piece attached to the base which essentially keeps the router base sitting on about the first 1/2" of the back or top. I did this to allow the router to sit parallel with the side without changing angle as the back radius changes. The base never touches the back. The radius would have to be extreme for it to touch as there is a 3/16" space from the small piece and the base. I have used it and it works well. My guitars are all built with a 15' back radius and the base never gets close to touching. It takes some practice but I like it. It is very important to have the bottom bearing and the bit bearing lined up so they are parallel to the side.

Feb 02, 09 | 11:40 am
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
One more thing, if you take a closer look, there are 3 points of contact. The bit bearing, the lower side bearing, and the small lexan piece next to the bit. That piece is approx. 3" long which takes the side to side wobble out. The only possible instability is front to back and if you think about how it works, even if I tip it to an extereme, the only way the bit can move is away from the guitar keeping it safe from digging in. And yes, I know it isn't a counter top. Give me a little credit will you!

Feb 02, 09 | 11:43 am
davidmor

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
Just to clear up any confusion, the lower bearing is adjustable up and down , and in and out. It is very close to the cutter now. When I use it, I drop it down to about 2/3 of the body thickness.

Feb 02, 09 | 11:45 am
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Dave no offense intended regarding the counter top comment -- its just that I having designed and redesigned many of these things I know, without the long vertical guide -- and as you mention without a great deal of practice it is easy to tip the router in or outboard and ruin the channel (and the guitar). To me it is extremely important that the new builder is made aware of these potential problems. And again with all due respect I know this has worked for you -- but based on my experience, in my opinion, I would agree with Ken H. for the new comer Bill Cory's unit would be a better choice.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Feb 02, 09 | 12:02 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
This is what some of the higher volume shops use to cut channels

http://luthiertool.com/binding_cutter_base_PC.html

Ken

Feb 02, 09 | 12:12 pm
Kevin Sjostrand

Total Topics: 84
Total Posts: 981
That is a great looking router guide Ken. It looks well engineered.
I can vouch for Bill's guide, it is simple, inexpensive and works very well.
I don't know if he is still making and selling them.
Bill, are you still offering your guides?
Kevin

Feb 02, 09 | 2:03 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
Yeah -- nice but a little pricey for the small shop.

If Bill no longer is offering his attachment -- KMG has two attachemnts that are "work alikes" based the high dollar one mentioned above.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitar est. 1978

Feb 02, 09 | 2:10 pm
Ken Hundley

Total Topics: 40
Total Posts: 2169
Got it Dave, I missed the vertical adjustment......

Feb 02, 09 | 2:21 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Bill's router guide:

http://www.nichebooks.com/kitstore/crg3-not-ebay.html


Feb 02, 09 | 3:48 pm
John S.

Total Topics: 16
Total Posts: 94
Good to hear from you, David. I've gotten a lot of good tips from your blog, but haven't seen much news for a few months. Hopefully you're back at it!

John

Feb 03, 09 | 5:35 am
barryb

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 75

My version of a Ridgid binding cutter.



Uses a standard router bit and allows for infinite adjustment for depth of cut.

Feb 04, 09 | 2:38 pm
Ken Cierp

Total Topics: 58
Total Posts: 2262
What's the base modification look like? How is the bit guarded? Following and averaging the contour, stabilization, and preventing an unwanted cut is the goal. The beauty of devices like Bill Cory's is that all the bench marks are met. Take a look at Bill's unit to see why it works so well.

Ken

Kenneth Michael Guitars est. 1978

Feb 04, 09 | 3:01 pm
Ken C

Total Topics: 30
Total Posts: 554
I have used Ken Cierp's and can vouch for how well it works.

Ken

Feb 11, 09 | 8:19 am



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