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LMI flamenco, possible problem

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Total Posts: 19
Hi all,

Some of you might have thought I dropped off the planet but it taken a while for my kit parts to be in stock then shipping took a while.

Anyway, I have a question. I got a pre carved classical neck with my kit. It has a dent where the fretboard will go. Pics of the unpacking and the neck are here:

I'm really happy with the kit and after the fretboard is on it won't be seen. Do you think I should contact LMI about it ?

Unfortunately because this has taken so long we're now well into the hot humid summer here. I've laid out the parts in the back room of my old house. You can see I have space issues. Stock removal will be done in the garage but gluing and french polishing will be done indoors to try and protect the wood from heat and humidity.

Don't you just love the smell of new wood...

Oct 28, 07 | 10:27 pm

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
First up, Welcome damian!

After looking at your (very large!) pictures, I wouldn't be worried about that little divot. It is under the fingerboard and won't be seen. I would probably fill it with a little bit of sawdust and glue just to level it out and then sand it flat. If this were a steel string, I would say it will go away with the truss rod route, but that doesn't apply here.

My Blog

Oct 29, 07 | 4:51 am

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
I wouldn't worry about it either. When you get to that point you will have two ways to create your fretboard relief - you will either plane it into the neck and clamp the fretboard to the neck, or you will plane it into the fretboard itself (both have disadvantages). If you do the former you may in fact plane out at least some of the divot, if you do the latter it will be completely hidden and won't create any problems.

Looks like a nice kit - very similar to the classical I built a few years ago. Have fun with the Spanish heel and keep a good record and some pics.

Oct 29, 07 | 8:08 am
Ken Hundley

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Total Posts: 2169
I don't think its going to be an issue either. I wouldn't even fill and sand it, I would be concerned with sanding below the rest of the plane even slightly, unless you are sanding reliev into the neck. though you might not be putting a truss rod into it, you may consider a graphite stiffener or a strip of hardwood where a trussrod would normally go. That would also take a large part of the divot out. Also, it will fill with glue, and that should be more than ample in my amateur opinion

Oct 29, 07 | 10:06 am

Total Topics: 2
Total Posts: 19
I thought it probably wasn't a problem. It's actually bigger than it appears in the pics. about 1/8 deep and wide and maybe 1/4 long. Might be bigger. Sort of strange how it happened. Didn't happen in shipping. Must have been a substantial hit.

I wasn't going to reinforce the neck. This is my first build and I'm trying to stick to the plans. I also forgot to mention that the tuners pictured aren't from LMI. I bought them seperately on ebay.

Sorry about the pic size. I was short of time last night and just threw them up straight off the camera. I'll update the website with progress, but that site won't last forever so if there's a better place to document the build I'm open to suggestions. I figure if I put a lot of detail into it then some of the questions I had will be there and answered for others thingking about it ?

The plans don't discuss transverse curvature of the top and back at all. I've read that flamencos are often flat as opposed to the arched faces of classicals. The plans show a bend along the back (neck to butt) but it doesn't look like a spline, it looks like straight then quick bend then straight. There is less online about flamencos than classicals so I'll probably have to do some poking around to sort this before I start. The first thing I want to do is trim the sides and I really need to know what the final shape is supposed to be before I do that.

I've watched the DVD. It all looks fine and doable but I'm probably going to be using power tools more than I'd like. I've got a lot of that stuff, but am a bit short on the sorts of hand tools I'd need to go that way. The Triton should be a good solution to the binding problem. You can suspend a router at a fixed position above the lower table so it'll be a fair approximation of the universal binding machine the suppliers sell. I just need to find a rebbating bit that cuts 2mm...:)

Anyway, thank you for your replies.

Oct 29, 07 | 2:59 pm

Total Topics: 34
Total Posts: 567
You can get a free blog here . There are several people with guitar building blogs there. Here is my blog to give you an idea of how I put mine together. It is pretty easy to set up and update. I have a lot of fun doing it, and I feel like it makes me a better builder as I feel like people are watching and following what I do. That makes me conscious of my learning progress.

Oct 29, 07 | 3:15 pm

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