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Bindings-wood VS Ivoroid
Author
Post
Bluehorse

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 7
For those who have used both, Do you find that using wood bindings are significantly more difficult than ivoroid?
For pure aesthetics I love a wood binding, I would be ok with letting this go for a future project if the more experienced members out there think it would add too greatly to the complexity of a first project. I'm thinking about curley maple binding for the S-M 000 rosewood.

Mar 23, 06 | 5:34 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Hi Bluehorse -- I broke a number of ebony bindings before giving up. I had made the mistake of buying a laminated binding that wasn't all wood, and it didn't work well for me. I would imagine a pure wood binding like curly maple would work very well and look really good on that 000.

The wood is more difficult -- order an extra piece to ruin before you get the hang of it, and look into the S-M "Free Info" pages for advice on bending, etc., since it has to be pre-bent ...

Let us know how it goes and what you find out --
BC

Mar 24, 06 | 7:27 am
Freeman

Total Topics: 27
Total Posts: 668
Actually, on my LMI kit wood was much easier than the plastic on my 000. The wood came prebent (same as the sides) and one piece of purfling was glued on). I only had to laminate one other piece of purfling. Here is a quick pic of the binding before finishing, I'm getting close to posting the whole build sequence of the classical

Mar 24, 06 | 8:10 am
leftykitman

Total Topics: 22
Total Posts: 137
I too prefer wood bindings to ivoroid.If you want wood go for it!!! just remember that curly maple will bend better dry than wet.I just bent some and with water it broke every time.Dry with heat they bent like plastic.
Peace,
Paul

Mar 24, 06 | 8:13 am
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
I love wood for binding. Paduck is great in the color. Ivroid , being a celuloid plastic will overtime shrink. I also like the fact that wood is a simialr material so you won't have the shrink and crack problems associated with ivroid.
Tortice is also a celuloid product. Boltoron is usually white or black. The wood just has more character
john hall

Mar 26, 06 | 10:55 am
CrowDuck

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 151
I haven't tried it yet, but I've heard that 'fibre bindings' are nice to work with. Don't know about shrinkage. I've read that black fibre binding is 'indistinguistable' from ebony with finish on it. Also, it is flexible, and available in 60" strips that can wrap around an entire binding ledge in one piece. Aside from being decorative, the purposes of bindings are to protect and seal the end grains of the top, back, and side woods at the edges from the elements, and also as a protective 'bumper' against impacts.

CrowDuck

Mar 26, 06 | 2:44 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
I broke so many strips of ebony at the beginning, I haven't tried wood binding yet. I'm currently working on a dread, jumbo and two Triple=0's and I've just finished routing the jumbo and dread -- ready to stick the bindings on and now I have to decide on this.

John Hall -- how much shinkage is there in the ivoroid, and how long does it take to show up?

I was thinking of using it with herringbone purfling on the dread to get a more true "golden era" look, along with amber tinted top, etc.

thx -- Bill

Mar 27, 06 | 10:16 am
Bluehorse

Total Topics: 6
Total Posts: 7
leftykitman-thanks for that incredibly useful tidbit I absolutlely would have wet or steamed them. For heat bending how about a simple cast iron pipe heated with a torch to bend over?
I'm gonna go for it, wood bindings really seem IMO to give the feel a hand made object rather than the plastics, If on a future project want very dark binding I will look into the fiber products.

Mar 27, 06 | 8:14 pm
CrowDuck

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 151
A good bending iron for small things like bindings, mando or uke sides, is an electric soldering iron, a big one like 200 or 250 watt. They can be found at suppliers for stained glass or sheet metal. Clamp the handle in a vise, or to a workbench, use a light dimmer switch for temp control.

CrowDuck

Mar 27, 06 | 10:37 pm
blues creek guitars Authorized Martin Repair Ctr

Total Topics: 52
Total Posts: 1011
The amount of shrinkage has more to do with enviromental issues. So that is a hard one to answer. The fiber binding is great and I use that also. To bend this if you don't have either iron or bending machine is get the wife steam iron and steam it , once it is plyable tape it to the guitar to cool overnight.
SHould get you in the ballgame
john hall

Mar 29, 06 | 3:12 pm
Fred Tellier

Total Topics: 17
Total Posts: 63
I used curly maple bindings on my 1st guitar and would have broken a few if I didn't have a experienced builder to help. I only wanted to use his bending iron but the help was invaluable. I cracked the wood trying to bend the 1st bend on the cutaway. The piece was long enough to still use after cutting off the cracked section. Get a few extra pieces you might mess up a few learning but the results are worth the effort.

Fred

Apr 18, 06 | 5:57 pm
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
I broke so many ebony bindings that I switched to plastic until I can afford more to practice on. Ah, well ...

Apr 20, 06 | 4:55 am
Fred Tellier

Total Topics: 17
Total Posts: 63
I hear that ebony is the worst to bend, I fell in love with the curly maple on a rosewood Laravee at my local music shop and had to have it.

Fred

Apr 20, 06 | 10:01 am
Bill Cory

Total Topics: 158
Total Posts: 3584
Seems many people, with good reason, dont consider a guitar to be a really custom made instrument unless it has wood bindings. I'm gonna have to learn that stuff! For right now, I'm just enjoying building and seeing the things I do come out pretty close to correct; never built anything until I built a guitar, so it's all pretty new to me.

Apr 20, 06 | 5:42 pm
Bill Greene

Total Topics: 0
Total Posts: 7
I used rosewood for my bindings, mostly because I was trying to get a contrast between the englemann top and the mahogany back/sides. The binding was .60 and bent like a dream (on a pipe) with just a little bit of water sponged on. I used a Gurian b/w/b fiber purfling and bent it straight, no water. I've not tried curly maple yet, so I'm glad to hear the advice.

Now, for gluing rosewood binding (shaped) onto the tighter radiused back, consider running the binding through boiling (yep, you read that right) water, and then wiping it off with a dry rag, just before gluing. Makes it very pliable, and the heat/water gives you a bit more time to work it/tape it/wrap it/etc. before the glue begins to gel. Worked like a charm for me.

Bill

Apr 29, 06 | 6:40 pm
Craig

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 58
I love wood binding as well. How much do you need for a dred?

Craig

Aug 09, 06 | 9:18 am
Fred Tellier

Total Topics: 17
Total Posts: 63
The wood binding strips that Stew Mac sells should be long enough for any size guitar. If you have not bent wood yet order a couple of extras as you may crack the first one.

Aug 09, 06 | 1:31 pm
ejko

Total Topics: 25
Total Posts: 113
I experienced a little bit of rosewood bleed-through where the binding intersects with the end strip using ivoroid. Probably should have sealed with shellac first, but I don't suspect I would have had that problem with a darker wood.

Ed

Aug 09, 06 | 1:39 pm
bestillduck

Total Topics: 3
Total Posts: 10
Wood binding really puts a guitar over the top.
Is the routing the same for wood binding??
can you order prebent bindings from LMI? say added to a stewmac kit?
wouldnt this make woodbinding just as easy as the typical platic bindings?

Aug 15, 07 | 8:21 pm



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